Guys,
I pulled the pump out of my 80e today to install a spring on the converter valve required for the new PI converter.

Anyway its back together and wanting some comfort that I didn't screw it up.

1st. When I was pulling the pump out the input shaft and other stuff moved outward with it maybe 3". I just slid it back in till it wouldn't go any further. No resistance.

2nd. I reused the gasket that came out of it. It was not ripped anywhere.

3rd. Can anyone tell me the torque spec for the 2 halfs of the pump?

To get the pump back in I basically lubed everything up with fluid. I aligned the gasket up in the case to where it should be. Slide the pump over the input shaft and close to where it needed to be. I started 2 or 3 of the pump bolts to make sure it was aligned. I then tapped on it with a rubber mallet several times pretty hard. It never would pull down all the way to bottom by just beating on it. It did go in some.

I would up going around all the bolts and torquing them a little bit at a time to pull it down. Toward the end it was popping a little as it seated.

I put the converter on it and filled the inlet of the pump and spun the converter. It appears the pump is working as it at least sucked up the fluid in the inlet.

Should I be able to spin the input shaft by hand in neutral? I can't. I can spin the ouput shaft by hand in neutral.

 

Don't have a warm fuzzy about this at all. Found this thread. Couple things I mentioned are brought up in it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9766208

Pulling out other stuff when the pump came out. I didn't use a clamp to line up the pump when I put it back together and the turning input shaft by hand.

Coming back apart as soon as I can get to it.

I knew trasnsmissions were tabo!

 

Send me a PM with your email Bill

 

Tore it back apart today. Think its okay now. Believe the pump half alignment was bad.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...4&postcount=76

Anywho I'd love to know any more tricks. Sending PM.

 

1. As long at the top of the overrun planet assy is lower than the pump mounting flanges, you are fine. If not, you might need to pull the last set of clutch disks/plates(fourth clutch) out to get the shaft to fully seat. If you pull the front speed sensor out and look in the hole you will beable to tell if just the overrun clutches need to be pulled and reinstalled or if you have to re spline the forward clutch/drum...

2. Pump gaskets are cheap, (as well as the pump bolt o rings..) but if it's not ripped you'll most likely be fine.

3. 18 footpounds

 

Thanks guys! Think I got it today. New gaskets and o-rings. Dealership wasn't open yesterday. I'm going to get this transmission in and over the next couple years I'm gonna buy another collect the tools and rebuild it. I have to get over this auto tranny fear

 

I was warned and used the regular J tool to remove the pump. We did not have the pump halves alignment tool so a couple of big zip ties did the trick there. My bolts did not have orings on them either. 96 model transmission. Who knows.

 

Alignment tool!!??! BAHH!! A good drill bit set works great for this guys, save your money!
I realize it's a little late for removal advice, but the best way to pull a pump on a 4L80-E that you intend to just reinstall is straight up. That requires the bellhousing to point skyward. That may SOUND simple, but it isnt! It requires a fixture of some sort to hold the transmission that way. Reinstallation is most easily accomplished with the transmission oriented the same way, but the pump heavy cast iron and not easily lowered without something solid to hold on to. I like to install one alignment stud to prevent rotational damage to the gasket (tears and crinkles easily) or oring. Then, to hold the pump I tap two the the boltholes in the pump and thread in a pair of SAE bolt with big washers to hold on to. Hardly any material is removed by the tap, the holes are perfectly sized for tapping. The bolts can also be use to tap the pump home.

 

I used a motorcycle stand, a few motorcycle straps and my rafters.lol



I agree with James, I also used alinement studs (long bolts with the heads cut off)

 

off the topic really quick that 4l80ePI converter only has three bolt holes, why not six like stock?