6L80 aftermarket stall
10-06-2020, 07:31 AM
#31
TECH Apprentice
Also, I found a guy locally that does billet front cover OE stalls, new pump and solenoid pack with updates and includes a tune that he's been working on for a few years. His solenoid pack update/mod boosts pressure to the lockup (he worded this all a little differently and used some transmission guy terminology that I'm not using so this may be off a hair) and then he tunes it to target 0 slip. He said he also keeps the tc lockup off except for 5th and 6th gear.
Sounds like a win. What do you think of that?
Sounds like a win. What do you think of that?
Solenoid pack with updates to boost pressure to lockup...just can be done in the tune.
The TCC solenoid controls the TCC reg and the TCC control valve. It is a Current-dependent solenoid just like an EPC in a 60e/80e. So I suppose it is possible that he makes the solenoid operate more in an on/off operation. But that is going to just jam straight line pressure down the throat of the converter. Probably will be fine with a billet front, but would more than likely cause damage in the weak stock front.
If it were mine:
Get a PONH billet front and a decent tune and be done.
10-06-2020, 11:28 AM
#32
Good info man. As if I needed another reason to go buy HPTuners this is definitely it.
You have the DOD disabled? Any negative effects? When I had the truck tuned initially my tuner said he was going to leave it all enabled unless I said otherwise... trusted him as he is one of the top LS/LT tuners in the area and has a really good track record with friends. But I absolutely ******* hate it. With massive tires any time it engaged in 4cyl mode the truck bogs and feels sluggish af.
Makes me want to get HPTuners and go back with Casey for the tune and disable DOD.
You have the DOD disabled? Any negative effects? When I had the truck tuned initially my tuner said he was going to leave it all enabled unless I said otherwise... trusted him as he is one of the top LS/LT tuners in the area and has a really good track record with friends. But I absolutely ******* hate it. With massive tires any time it engaged in 4cyl mode the truck bogs and feels sluggish af.
Makes me want to get HPTuners and go back with Casey for the tune and disable DOD.
Will send in PM
Think it sounds like over-advertising.
Solenoid pack with updates to boost pressure to lockup...just can be done in the tune.
The TCC solenoid controls the TCC reg and the TCC control valve. It is a Current-dependent solenoid just like an EPC in a 60e/80e. So I suppose it is possible that he makes the solenoid operate more in an on/off operation. But that is going to just jam straight line pressure down the throat of the converter. Probably will be fine with a billet front, but would more than likely cause damage in the weak stock front.
If it were mine:
Get a PONH billet front and a decent tune and be done.
Solenoid pack with updates to boost pressure to lockup...just can be done in the tune.
The TCC solenoid controls the TCC reg and the TCC control valve. It is a Current-dependent solenoid just like an EPC in a 60e/80e. So I suppose it is possible that he makes the solenoid operate more in an on/off operation. But that is going to just jam straight line pressure down the throat of the converter. Probably will be fine with a billet front, but would more than likely cause damage in the weak stock front.
If it were mine:
Get a PONH billet front and a decent tune and be done.
What exactly is a PONH billet front? He said he was using stock stalls with a billet front, I assumed he and you are talking about the same thing. The tune side will be handled. I'm going to have my tuner talk to this shop and read your post on how you tune it. My tuner called some shops last night and they use the trans guy I mentioned and they said they've used that trans shop for a while for 6L80's and they've all been phenomenal.
10-06-2020, 01:06 PM
#33
TECH Apprentice
If I had 45 minutes to kill I could do a writeup on how anyone with HPtuners could do the TCC tune themselves.
It's pretty darn simple.
PONH is a brand. Precision Of New Hampton (iowa)
They are a stock stall converter with billet front cover. It's about as budget friendly as you can get while still getting a high quality product
It's pretty darn simple.
PONH is a brand. Precision Of New Hampton (iowa)
They are a stock stall converter with billet front cover. It's about as budget friendly as you can get while still getting a high quality product
10-06-2020, 01:22 PM
#34
If I had 45 minutes to kill I could do a writeup on how anyone with HPtuners could do the TCC tune themselves.
It's pretty darn simple.
PONH is a brand. Precision Of New Hampton (iowa)
They are a stock stall converter with billet front cover. It's about as budget friendly as you can get while still getting a high quality product
It's pretty darn simple.
PONH is a brand. Precision Of New Hampton (iowa)
They are a stock stall converter with billet front cover. It's about as budget friendly as you can get while still getting a high quality product
I'd love to see the writeup, and I would love to do it myself but I don't have HP tuners and would have to purchase it. My tuner does touch up tunes for free and my truck is already unlocked (credits) so it'll be free for me to have him do it so I'm going that route. Plus I trust him far more than myself.
Oh and gotcha on the brand. Thank you.
12-17-2020, 08:50 AM
#35
12-17-2020, 11:39 AM
#37
I ended up replacing my trans and converter 2 weeks ago today with a unit from the dealership. So far I'm really happy with it. Came with a 3 yr 100k warranty, paid $2700 for it, and it was 3/4 of the way full of fluid already, only had to put 3 ish quarts in it to fill it. Very happy with the dealer unit and the price is great too.
I made some long drawn out videos on youtube watching the tcc lockup while regular driving, with tow mode on, during hard throttle and then actually turned the converter clutch completely off and drove it around. By far my favorite way it drove was with the converter clutch off. The shifts sound/feel quite a bit different, a lot more like having a small stall converter.
Which brings me to another thing, I love this stock converter.. it stalls at 2400+ (tires break loose at 2400) and makes it blow the tires off easily from a stop if I want them too (that's really the reason I went back with stock is I like it so much I'm afraid to change it, and a larger stall would just spin the tires more and that wouldn't help anything plus the OE one slipped to 147k, that's a bad *** clutch material and not sure if the aftermarket converter clutches would last as long).... if you run it out of lockup it drives better like a little stall and one of the coolest things was the converter efficiency... I turned the lockup off and hammered it and from 4000-6200 rpm the max amount of slip I saw was only 230 rpm, and as low as 130, or so rpm of slip under WOT, reason I say that is you may find that your car is faster if you lock the converter vs leaving it unlocked it, this showed that locking it won't do much so I can tune the converter clutch out at 100% throttle in all gears which I'm really happy about. I also hammered it turned the clutch on mid pull and didn't feel a difference. Sweet.
Another interesting thing is trans guys are saying that the converter in the 1500 and 2500 are the same (and I confirmed this they are both a 6mbx). And the 2500 truck converters/transmissions are going over 200k all the time and the 1500 dies as early as 80k on a regular basis. I watched a 2500 the other day for a minute and it didn't bring the converter clutch on until about 30 mph. 1500 (my truck) brings it on at 8-10mph. The 2500 turned the clutch off during decel around 30 mph, the 1500 at 10. On the 1500 in tow haul, it is actually just like the 2500 is in normal, as far as the lockup goes anyway.
The point of all that is the converter kills the trans. The 2500 uses the converter only a little bit less and goes over 200k easy with a ton more weight and abuse usually (work truck, loaded down, lack of services). So if I model the tune more similar to a 2500 the converter will last probably longer than the truck.
So right now I'm still thinking a lot about the tune. I want to set it to where the converter doesn't come on until at least 3rd if not 4th or 5th.. still thinking on this one. Will have to do some testing and see what I like
Set it to where it unlocks at over.... ehhh 25%? throttle
Unlocks at anything below about 30 mph
Honestly if I do that it'll cut the converter activity down to probably less than 50% of what it was previously doing. It went 147k miles running far more, now how long will it last... that thought is why I may not make it target 0 slip and mess with pressures. Messing with pressures, like maroon monster alluded to earlier, can be really risky so I get gunshy there. Not saying we wont mess with target slip and pressure, just not really sure yet.
Sorry for this being so long, some of it is still just thoughts so it drags out.
..
I made some long drawn out videos on youtube watching the tcc lockup while regular driving, with tow mode on, during hard throttle and then actually turned the converter clutch completely off and drove it around. By far my favorite way it drove was with the converter clutch off. The shifts sound/feel quite a bit different, a lot more like having a small stall converter.
Which brings me to another thing, I love this stock converter.. it stalls at 2400+ (tires break loose at 2400) and makes it blow the tires off easily from a stop if I want them too (that's really the reason I went back with stock is I like it so much I'm afraid to change it, and a larger stall would just spin the tires more and that wouldn't help anything plus the OE one slipped to 147k, that's a bad *** clutch material and not sure if the aftermarket converter clutches would last as long).... if you run it out of lockup it drives better like a little stall and one of the coolest things was the converter efficiency... I turned the lockup off and hammered it and from 4000-6200 rpm the max amount of slip I saw was only 230 rpm, and as low as 130, or so rpm of slip under WOT, reason I say that is you may find that your car is faster if you lock the converter vs leaving it unlocked it, this showed that locking it won't do much so I can tune the converter clutch out at 100% throttle in all gears which I'm really happy about. I also hammered it turned the clutch on mid pull and didn't feel a difference. Sweet.
Another interesting thing is trans guys are saying that the converter in the 1500 and 2500 are the same (and I confirmed this they are both a 6mbx). And the 2500 truck converters/transmissions are going over 200k all the time and the 1500 dies as early as 80k on a regular basis. I watched a 2500 the other day for a minute and it didn't bring the converter clutch on until about 30 mph. 1500 (my truck) brings it on at 8-10mph. The 2500 turned the clutch off during decel around 30 mph, the 1500 at 10. On the 1500 in tow haul, it is actually just like the 2500 is in normal, as far as the lockup goes anyway.
The point of all that is the converter kills the trans. The 2500 uses the converter only a little bit less and goes over 200k easy with a ton more weight and abuse usually (work truck, loaded down, lack of services). So if I model the tune more similar to a 2500 the converter will last probably longer than the truck.
So right now I'm still thinking a lot about the tune. I want to set it to where the converter doesn't come on until at least 3rd if not 4th or 5th.. still thinking on this one. Will have to do some testing and see what I like
Set it to where it unlocks at over.... ehhh 25%? throttle
Unlocks at anything below about 30 mph
Honestly if I do that it'll cut the converter activity down to probably less than 50% of what it was previously doing. It went 147k miles running far more, now how long will it last... that thought is why I may not make it target 0 slip and mess with pressures. Messing with pressures, like maroon monster alluded to earlier, can be really risky so I get gunshy there. Not saying we wont mess with target slip and pressure, just not really sure yet.
Sorry for this being so long, some of it is still just thoughts so it drags out.
..
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 12-17-2020 at 11:52 AM.
12-17-2020, 02:22 PM
#39
One dealer wanted 3000 shop account price, another 2800, huffines is pretty far from me but they wanted 2700 and had to order it, and still had it to me in less than 24 hours. I ordered it from the dealership one block away from me and they still didn't have it after 4 weeks so I started calling around and that's when I found it for 2700.
The trans shops I called put in dealership units for 3700-4000 range. What price did you get when you checked on it? Or did you check on it lol.