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60E to 80E 4wd ESCB guys step in

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Old 10-09-2008, 12:10 PM
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I can't imagine. If I had to do it all again, I'd probably shorten mine by 3/4".I really don't like how far that shaft inside that boot. But I know that doesn't help ya either. Just get it finished, put it on the ground, and measure it the right way. It will definitely slow down the process of getting back on the road.
Old 10-09-2008, 12:46 PM
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On MY truck,RCSB, 4x4, the rear universal was a 1310. When I ordered the shaft from Denny's, I ordered the billet front,1350; and 1350 rear joint, and pinion flange. Had to change the pinion flange, but it wasn't too bad. He wouldn't sell me the conversion 1310 to 1350 universal because he said people break 'em, and flame him on the internet. Can't really blame Denny's for feeling like that. He said people lie to him about the weight, and power level just to get a cheaper shaft, then when it comes apart, he gets all the bullshit. A very interesting person to talk to, like I said, kinda like the "Soup ****" episode on Seinfeld. "Ahhhh....I think you are lying about your power level.....NO SHAFT FOR YOU!!!!"
Old 10-09-2008, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by thunder550
I didn't have to change out the receiving end on my diff, so I think I'm still using original style u-joints. Not sure if that helps or not.
Yeah thats what I thought. I also think Dewey has 1350's. Just grasping possible differences. I'm looking on the net to see if I can find out if the different style joint components have a little different length.

Originally Posted by dewmanshu
I can't imagine. If I had to do it all again, I'd probably shorten mine by 3/4".I really don't like how far that shaft inside that boot. But I know that doesn't help ya either. Just get it finished, put it on the ground, and measure it the right way. It will definitely slow down the process of getting back on the road.
I'm about with you on just getting it swapped then measure it up and order the shafts.

Originally Posted by wkdivr
On MY truck,RCSB, 4x4, the rear universal was a 1310. When I ordered the shaft from Denny's, I ordered the billet front,1350; and 1350 rear joint, and pinion flange. Had to change the pinion flange, but it wasn't too bad. He wouldn't sell me the conversion 1310 to 1350 universal because he said people break 'em, and flame him on the internet. Can't really blame Denny's for feeling like that. He said people lie to him about the weight, and power level just to get a cheaper shaft, then when it comes apart, he gets all the bullshit. A very interesting person to talk to, like I said, kinda like the "Soup ****" episode on Seinfeld. "Ahhhh....I think you are lying about your power level.....NO SHAFT FOR YOU!!!!"
Yep going 1350 and swapping the pinion yoke. Not going to do any of the super strong billet stuff. Off the shelf Spicer yokes. In the high end custom drive shaft business I don't know that I would be any different. It's all about the reputation.
Old 10-09-2008, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wkdivr
The worst part about all this driveshaft **** is....unless you have a drive-on lift, you have to do all your measurements at ride height. Old, fat, broke down fuggers like me don't fit too well under the truck unless it's up in the air!
Lol I'm not fat fat but old and broken down I'm with there.

Originally Posted by dewmanshu
I was cussing taking those pics LOL. My fat ***.
Yeah you're fat *** my *** you will do anything to snap a few pics.


Originally Posted by thunder550
Surely my dear fellow Let me acquire my measuring device and retire to my stable to obtain the direct measurements of the turning shaft of my vehicle. Cheerio!
Oh brother.
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