Yes, I would agree, upgrade everything now. And yes, the brakes will be clocked a little different, but will function fine.

 

So far I'm at 627 whp, 653 tq, but I plan on turning it up with a bigger turbo next spring.

Sooooo, a DS from a 3/4 ton, or have one made? Is the front yolk where it goes into the transfer case the same?

 

No Brent, dont get a stock 3/4 shaft!

They arent stronger,same thin alum just bigger od than the 1500 shaft.

I was wondering about using a duramax rear shaft when i did the 80e conversion, but found that its the high speed critical rating that makes it a bad choice.

Just get another steel one!

 

How about getting a new ends for mine. I've become pretty good friends with the guys at the DS shop over the years.

 

By the way Tim, the hydroboost is amazing. I can stall my truck to 16 psi off the line.

 

Have one made!

 

Thats awesome man! I gotta do this mod during the winter!

I can get ya balanced steel shaft made with your yoke for 273 here if it would help ya.

Gonna try and run at quaker city this weekend since sat. work was canceled.

It would be cool if you could make it/weather cooperates.

 

The diameter has a big effect on the overall strength of the shaft...torsional stiffness for a thin walled cylinder (dshaft) is related to the radius cubed and critical speed is based on material properties and length squared.

 

I would recommend hydroboost to anyone, it made the brakes way more consistent, and the pedal is always in the same place. Before, it was all over the place.

Let me know when you are going, and I will try to make it, but I'm not promising yet.

Mine is a steel shaft, I think it is 3", and am not worried about the strength at all. If I get a new shaft, shouldn't I get one with a heavier front and rear yolk/u-joint?

 

Yes....I used a bastard joint when I first did my 14b swap and had a ujoint failure at 75mph and did this:



the skid plate was the only thing keeping it from falling onto the highway...