Yeah thats cool...I will be running 265/22 all the way around...I have been discussing it a little more in detail with shredsled seeing how he has done what I am about to do. I think I will be doing lca with drop keys and then flip the upper around with the ball joint and then use some offset bushings in order to align it, but then he said jhis steering issues and bumpsteer corrected even when he used drop spindles in the combination!

 

yeah, with just keys and LCA's, you'll have minor bumpsteer if you go ANY lower than like 3.5-4" of front drop. And when adding in new style Belltech 2508 spindle with offset bushings, then crank keys back up (which also helps protect torsion key bolt heads from scrapage), my bumpsteer angles were minimized dramatically.
Also, I'd love to try the mcgaughys spindles back to back with belltech. I've been in 2wd trucks with them and they were great, but I chose the Beltechs for more CV boot to bj stud clearance.


Flipping the upper BJ and UCA just helps with balljoint performance and life (and no I'm not talking about flipping upper bj to mount under spindle!).
It's moreso the offset UCA bushings that help alignment, giving more camber adjustment.
I used Moog offset bushings, which are nice, but I believe Belltech bushings are offset even further, if you find you need even more adjustment for some reason.

I'd be curious to see how much longer a djm UCA is compared to an OE with offset bushings.... and also bj angle comparison with flipped OE....




So robert you get anywhere with it yet?

 

Good info...I get pretty bad bump steer with the lowering keys very de-cranked, I'd really like to remedy that some day.

Have you noticed any loss of steering radius, like in a parking lot, with the drop spindles? I've read multiple times that this can be an issue...

 

I noticed no difference in turning radius, only improvement in handling and driveability.
Only time turning radius is significantly limited is when on dry cement in 4high, I do not push it near full lock.

I also just added a new version Cognito pitman & idler arm support brace kit, and it tightened up the steering even further and helps keep things aligned on hairy 4hi launches. Some have had clearance issues with this which result in sacrificed turning radius, but I was able to work around it.


I usually post all this info and some pics in a stickied thread over on gmfsdahtkahm, called how to lower your 4x4. Not sire if their is a similar thread here, but probably should be!

 

Great info man, and a great idea on the sticky!...I think that I'll take care of that right away, if you're willing to post up your write up and pics

*EDIT* Done as promised https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ur-4x4-490689/

 

the original write up over there was actually initiated by someone else, I simply added my input to it through my own experiences.

...and I'm currently accessing through my droid at the moment so copy and past a lot of info is a bit cumbersome. I will definitely put some stuff up over there once I get to a computer though...

 

That's cool brother, don't knock yourself out, wait until you get home and can do it the easy way

Looking forward to the write-up, I'm sure that there's some good info in there

 

I know the NBS trucks react differently than NNBS. But MCG spindles coupled with coil relocators on my 11' accomplished the drop and it looks great.
But my turning radius BLOOOOOWS now. I can turn a limo in less room than I need to make a turn in my 4x4 truck now. FYI.

 

I'm not positive on the details, but seems like a lot of NNBS guys swear by the ground force spindles...

 

Ok, forgive me I'm a lowering newbie. But I'm considering buying a newer NBS and can't decide between a 2wd and 4x4.

I would want the ride height of a 2wd with a 2/4" drop

Can the same ride height be achieved on a 4x4 without killing the driveline angles, etc?