For those that have done the 80 swap, is it possible to use the stock ds with different yokes? Or does a new ds need to be fabbed up? Also if the stock ds can be used what are the limits of it, Hp wise?

Truck is a 05 2wd crew cab, (same wheel base as a ex cab truck I believe) with a one piece ds.

 

I'm running a stock 2 piece drive shaft with 750+ nitrous motor..

I also build tubular crossmembers for your swap.

 

I used the stock driveshaft when I had the 80e in my 05 crew. I piece aluminum...I used a bastard universal joint. I will warn you though at around 85mph the driveshaft would start to roar and would level out around 100mph. Go ahead and get the ecsb 2 piece and make it work.

 

You need to use a turbo 400 short yoke, and it will go right your stock drive shaft, and you wont have to have anything made. I had my 2wd crew cab driveshaft speed balanced in Las Vegas, it helped but still did the roar with lower rear gears. Truck made about 500 to the wheels and did not come apart.

 

What caused your drive shaft to shimmy? Was it the Drive shaft being a one piece or the u joint you used?

I've been doing some research and found people use a 1350/80e yoke with a precision 448 u joint (1330 to 1350) to use stock drive shaft. Is this correct?

If I used a 2 piece drive shaft what else would I need? This is the first time I'm reading about 2 piece drive shafts for 80 swaps.

 

How bad is this roar? Is it bearable? Safe? It's a turboed crew cab so fast family rides still need to be safe. If stock one piece doesn't roar with 60e, what causes it to roar with the 80e swap? I also have 4:10 gears.

 

It roars with 60e and 80e, trans does not affect it, its the driveshaft it self. They were not made to spin that fast. They are so long being a one piece. The extended cab 2wd trucks come with a 2-piece driveshaft from the factory with a carreier bearing set-up in the middle. Two shorter shafts are easier to keep balance and are overall stronger due to each shaft being split up like that. My truck had 3.23 gears stock, like most 2wd crew cabs do. I did not notice it, because my rear end gears were so tall, the shaft never spun fast enough. I dropped to 4.11s and 80-90 mph passing the roar was crazy apparent. I thought they messed my gear installation up. I took it in, they put the rear on jack stands, and we spun it up, the whole bed started bouncing around when the roar started. They speed balanced my shaft, and the roar was still there, but not nearly like it was balanced from the factory. Its a scary feeling when it does it. It never came apart though, and the truck was running 12.7-12.8 at around 110. Ive seen pics of some coming apart, and its not pretty, wipes other things out, you dont want damaged, thats why most people will go to a two piece shaft for safety, and they balance better.

 

Also, the two piece is a direct swap, same overall length, you just have to come up with a way to bolt in the carrier bearing set up in the middle.

 

The yoke on the shaft in my truck cam with what looks like a harmonic balancer. I believe that helps with the roar in factory setup, when you swap to a 80e yoke you lose the balancer. I put my crew back stock or else the 2 piece shaft was my next mod.

 

Thanks guys, super good info in here. I really appreciate all the first hand 80e swap experiences.

Anyone with the part number for the yoke? Also anyone with first hand experience with jakes 80e vs a stock 80e with transgo shift kit?