Hey guys...

Ive got a built 4l80e running a deep pan and a tru-cool 40k cooler looped in with the stock cooler in the radiator...

Running down the highway tonight, its 30 degrees outside and transmission temps were running around 78 degrees Fahrenheit according to my USShift trans controller..

That seems too cold to me... as my controller wont allow the converter to lock up if it gets much colder then that. Should I put in a t-stat bypass for the large cooler?

Thanks guys
-Chris

 

I would, that sounds about on par. My 80e runs about 45-50 above ambient also. I don't drive mine in the winter though.

 

Where do you live? on my truck I put a piece of sheetmetal behind the grill in the winter. But I also ordered my tru-cool 40K with a thermostat. it is expensive to buy separately though. It is fully open by 180 degrees, which is a little high for me. It looks like it would be easy to open and manipulate spring pressure to open a little sooner.

 

I am working on a 4l80e transmission, I can not find a manual for it and when I pulled the valve body I thought I counted 9 check *****.
When I bagged them up I only had eight.
There is 9 indentations on the body that appear to be for check *****. Am I unable to count or just missing something?

 

I believe there should only be 8 check ***** that go between the separator plate and the case. So yes, there are unused indentations. If you look closely you might be able to see wear in the case from the check *****, and no wear where there wasnt a check ball.

Actually, here's a diagram, its shows 9 check *****. See if your case or separator plate has wear where it shows check ball #2: http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/image...0Locations.pdf

There are also a couple checkballs in the valve body itself.

 

Thank you for the valve body / check ball tips. # 2 does not get a ball on my tranny. Does any one have a breakdown pic of the 4l80e transmission that they could send me?

 

Cold is good lol.

 

There is such a thing as too cold though.

 

The few days a year mine will do this I just cut a piece of cardboard and zip tie it over about half or more of the cooler surface. Works fine. Clip it off when it warms up a little.

If you wanted to get fancy you could put in a cooler bypass loop with a thermostatic valve. It'll bypass the cooler till the fluid is at a specified temp, then should shut off the cooler when needed to warm it up. If it's setup correctly it will regulate the temp right about where you set it within 10-15deg.

 

Colder more viscous oil, which means more friction and less power to the rear wheels, and worse fuel economy.