4l80e no workie----Trans or converter?
#12
AKA are you sure your converter did not need shims to keep it from disengaging the pump once it was brought up to the flexplate. Also a possibility, kinda doubt it though. But on that note, who makes the converter and what flexplate are you running?
#13
Edit:
Just went out and dumped in a couple more quarts. No dice
Last edited by AJII; Dec 29, 2013 at 08:45 PM.
#15
On mine the real Full Hot Line was .5" above the existing F hot line, I checked it with the dipstick installed and the pan removed. That put my Full fluid level right at the seam of the case and pan as suggested. This was using a Gm 80E dipstick and tube. So did you just do the 80E swap?
#16
So was your Converter Spec'd to be used with a stock 60E plate? I forget if Circle D does the hybrid 80E converter with the 60e pads. I am just tossing out any ideas that come to mind. How much shim did you have to add? Approx.
#17
Fairly certain it is not the converter. For the transmission pump to pump all the converter has to do is spin the pump gears. Technically the converter could be empty and you would still have pump pressure. Do you think maybe something happened with the boost valve install and it is dumping off all the line pressure?
Chris
Chris
#19
Installing a trans/converter should be a very precise process.
There are 3 absolutely critical steps
#1) Ensure the converter is fully seated. 1.030" from converter pads to bellhousing face on the 4l80e. This was a royal PITA to get mine fully seated, I'm guessing the billet input shaft had something to do with that. I also had the stock 4l80e and converter there so I could compare.
#2) Ensure 1/16-3/16" converter pad to flexplate spacing (2/16 to 3/16" is ideal on the 4l80). Sounds like you did this correctly. I'm also guessing you did you have converter fully seated. If it wasn't there's a good chance you wouldn't have any spacing to the converter or at the very least wouldn't need the shims.
#3) Ensure proper fluid level. Low fluid is far worse than too much. I was even advised to run mine up to 1/2 quart over full. I would recheck your fluid level and if it's low add more and see how it responds.
There are 3 absolutely critical steps
#1) Ensure the converter is fully seated. 1.030" from converter pads to bellhousing face on the 4l80e. This was a royal PITA to get mine fully seated, I'm guessing the billet input shaft had something to do with that. I also had the stock 4l80e and converter there so I could compare.
#2) Ensure 1/16-3/16" converter pad to flexplate spacing (2/16 to 3/16" is ideal on the 4l80). Sounds like you did this correctly. I'm also guessing you did you have converter fully seated. If it wasn't there's a good chance you wouldn't have any spacing to the converter or at the very least wouldn't need the shims.
#3) Ensure proper fluid level. Low fluid is far worse than too much. I was even advised to run mine up to 1/2 quart over full. I would recheck your fluid level and if it's low add more and see how it responds.


