I started a thread about how viable keeping the 60e was for a street truck but I am not leaning towards building an 80e and not worrying about it. I do have some questions that I was not able to find through searching though.

First question is how noticeable is the taller 1st gear? being a 4 speed first gear is already super tall for what I am used to so I am wondering if its a huge hindrance on the way the truck feels.

Secondly, I may not have my tools available to my new place in san antonio for a while so I may pay a shop (most likely Nelson performance) to do the swap. So for all who has paid someone to do the swap what was your total cost and who built your transmissions? I have heard from some people 4k total and some just a couple thousand. Thanks in advance.

 

First gear feels fine to me, I like it better as I always felt the 60e first was too low. I think the more tq you make the less noticable 1st gear is. As for how much I am not sure since I did mine myself.

 

I am probably being too paranoid about it. I am used to 6 speed manuals and engines revving to 8k lol. I worked on VWs for so long this is a whole new world to me, variety is the spice of life! A little nitrous will help with first gear also. How much was your total parts cost?

 

No one has ever ran slower at the track with the longer 1st gear, but plenty have traction problems in 1st, if that gives you any insight.

 

It's an easily noticeable difference, especially if both have stock converters. In addition to the higher ratios of first and second gear in the 80 you've also got more mechanical loss and lower stall RPM of stock converter because they are configured for maximum load capacities. Overdrive is lower: 0.750:1 instead of 0.696:0.

In terms of drive-ability the narrower overall range means closer gear ratios and less RPM drop during upshifts. Where as a 1-2 WOT shift in a 4L60-E is such a drastic RPM drop the engine falls out of its power band, that same shift in a 4L80-E has much less RPM loss and can safely be done with torque management programmed out. The 2-3 shift in a 4L80-E is a single hydraulic event and a single clutch pack engagement unlike the dual-event sloppy-feeling 2-3 shift of a 4L60-E where the band must disengage at the same time the 3-4 clutch pack engaged. Getting a solid but smooth flareless and bogless 2-3 shift out a 4L60-E is impossible.

A 4L80-E with an aftermarket torque converter with a higher stall RPM than stock feels great. The upshifts shifts feel discreet and consistent always. I can just about guarantee you that you won't miss the lower gearing of the 60.

 

The taller 1st gear isn't that bad, in fact it drives better than the 60E because the 1-2 shift doesn't dive bomb the engine. If you go with a high stall converter (don't look at my signature, I'm insane) you'll not notice the torque loss off the line.

As far as the swap, mine was right at $4300 before taxes. But that was with a very beefy custom crossmember, brand new custom driveshaft, transmission internal upgrades and master technicians doing the work and fabrication.

 

I am pretty sure I will eventually go 4l80, I would rather be slower and reliable and build it right the first time. I just got a ball park quote from Nelson performance for almost 5k with everything being new. That's a big bill but might be worth it in the long run.

 

I just did the swap a couple weeks ago and I did find that it was a big difference in first. but it helped me with my traction problem and the difference in the 1-2 rpm drop is awesome. for normally city driving I used to have to give it more gas when I shifted into second, with the 80e I can keep it at a steady speed and it just goes

 

I have the conversion crossmembers for the 2wd trucks.

 

When I was n/a it was a night and day difference 60e to 80e at the track and not in a good way. Street driving I felt no loss. With FI it's a non issue.