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4L80e Build

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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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GTO Eric's Avatar
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Default 4L80e Build

I am gearing up to rebuild my spare 4L80e this winter.
It is currently all apart on the bench.
My current 4L80e simply has a stock rebuild with the exception of a 6 clutch direct and a Trans Go HD2 shift kit
Accumulator spring setup as "firm" (weakest spring)
2nd feed hole .090-.096
3rd feed hole .100 (still a little weak)
4th feed hole .090-.096



With this next build I'd like to improve on a few things and that's where I'm open to recommendations.

Currently based on my experience with the first unit and a lot of research I'd like to do the following.

I'm starting with a "late" core like the first.
I will dual feed the directs by removing the second seal on the center support, remove the seal in the direct drum and plug the reverse feed to the center support.

I'd like to use a stock separator plate and drill the holes the following
2nd feed .110
3rd feed----check ball removed for max feed
4th feed .090-.096

I'm still contemplating on the accumulator valve spring. I may keep the stock spring since I am enlarging the second feed hole so much.

I'd also like to delete the 3rd accumulator and possibly the 4th.
I took a look at the diagram below and think I can just install a block off plate where the 3rd/4th accumulators would go. Would this not effectively block the accumulator oil and the clutch pack feeds?

I drew a red line in what I believe would be blocked off by the plate and completely eliminate the accumulator function for 3rd and 4th.

---The only thing that would not be blocked off is the torque signal as that is retained in the valve body on the late models.---I was wrong on this, It looks like it passes into the accumulator housing then back into the valve body before reaching the accumulator valve.

Thanks in advance for any help.

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Last edited by GTO Eric; Nov 29, 2013 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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I think it would be easier to just remove spring and install a spacer to let piston in place.
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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Byrdman11
I think it would be easier to just remove spring and install a spacer to let piston in place.
I also considered that or blocking the feed in the housing with a set screw.
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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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I wouldn,t do anything that would be hard to undo.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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I was wrong on the torque signal fluid. It passes into the accumulator housing before reaching the accumulator valve. I would have to mod the valve body to keep this if I were to use a block off plate.

Looks like I am just going to retain the accumulator housing but "fix" the 3rd and maybe the 4th accumulator pistons in their housings.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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I normally just use the one larger blue spring and then drill the 3rd feed about .010 larger than 2nd and 4th. Not sure if blocking the pistons is necessary in a normal valve body configuration.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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I hope you document this build with plenty of pics and show us what you did. I just buttoned my 80e back up today...toasted the direct clutches and the intermediates. My tuning ability got this brand new 80e with hd-2 in about 6000 miles. I just cleaned it up and replaced the clutches and steels and reinstalled the full hd-2 kit. I hope this time with full line pressure it will live longer than a year.
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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thanks for the replies.

It looks like I may be getting on this build sooner then I thought. My current transmission started making a whining noise although it is otherwise functioning correctly. I am going to pull the valve body and clean it along with the boost valve and install a new filter.

I will try and document some of the rebuild but I tend to work faster then I take pictures.
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