Tootall

iTrader: (79)

yeah . . . he and I got some crapped out cheap cores . . . they come apart really easy

jakebdb56

iTrader: (24)

Yeah it's my first 60E rebuild. Matt (tootall) is rebuilding a 60E as well so it should be an interesting/fun project.

Just figured out it's a 65E casing too, shoot dang!

James B.

iTrader: (1)

Install a "Beast" shell. Those are cheap and they don't fail at the hub like the stock ones do. The Z-Pak is definately a unique arrangement. I've heard positive and negative experienced with that. If you're installing an aftermarket torque converter, consider eliminating pulse-width modulation from the valvebody by installing a stiff spring behind the pulse valve. You'll actually have one left over from the TransGo install that works great for that. Go to your nearest transmission parts place and get the two molded pistons in the drum. These do not come with most rebuild kits but they do wear out just like any other lip seals. Be very careful installing all pistons with lip seals. I like to use plastic mylar or overhead transparencies to help guide the lip seals in. This is difficult without the right tools but it can be done. You will need to make a spring compressor to service these pistons. There's one in the back of the case you'll need a compressor for too. I used some all-thread stock and a few pieces of metal scrap and welded up a simple tool for doing all these. You can do the same. You'll see what you need to do when you get it apart. Have an assorted set of snapring pliers or you'll be fighting it for a long time trying to get those snaprings off. If your valvebody has the plastic accumulator piston, throw that crap away and replace with an aluminum one. It doesn't even have to be the aftermarket "pinless" one, just an older-model aluminum stock unit works great. With the shift kit, go easy on the "Firmness". Many are happy setting it up for Stage 1 and leaving the recommended washer out of the accumulator piston housing for a softer 1-2 shift. You definately DO NOT want any gears banging in a 4L60-E, that will bring early death. There's a little clip you have to install that supposedly reduces chatter or something, it's a bit of a pain. The easiest way to do it is to use Vaseline or transgel to hold the thing in place - it's tricky and can invoke involutary use of inappropriate vocabulary. That stuff also works well for holding the trust washers in place. Your stock trans already has a 13-vane pump. Check all clutch pack tollerances carefully! Getting them within spec on a 4L60-E is especially critical.
There is only one thing you cannot improvise a tool for - installing and resizing the sealing rings. In my opinion, take the drum and input shaft to a trans place and pay them to do it for you. The tools are expensive and you have to have them to do this right. The problem later becomes installing the pump without damaging the sealing rings. (The best practice is to leave the resizer on the rings until ready to install the pump, but that's impossible if you don't own the tool!) I little trick I like to use is to compress the sealing rings by wrapping with a flat piece of aluminum from a beer can a few times, clamp it, then hold a can of compressed air upside down to freeze the rings and input shaft so that the rings don't expand when you release the clamps. That buys you about two minutes to get that pump on!
Good luck. These transmissions suck to work on, 4L80-E's are a ton easier.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

hey thanks for the advice . . . !

jakebdb56

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for the advice James
I got the new tailhousing in the mail today.



The reason I went ahead and got a new case and tailhousing is I don't want to have any issues with the older case/tailhousing. Plus they were cheap lol.
Hopefully the rest of the parts will be ordered today or tomorrow and I'll have this bitch assembled in a few weeks. I'll look into taking those parts to a trans shop and having them fitted, just gotta find someone willing to do it and not rape me on price.
I'll post a spreadsheet maybe in a few days of my buildup. So far it's well within budget (knock on wood) and I'm happy with it.

jakebdb56

iTrader: (24)

Just a little update:

I haven't given up, money and time have been a little issue to get this all rolling. I'm past the tradeshow BS from the fishing lure business, so now I have time to mess with a project. As of right now this is my parts list:

4L60E FBody core
4L60E Truck core (from my truck)
4L65E Center case (new)
4L65E Bellhousing (new, same as 60E's)
4L60E Truck tailhousing (new)
Corvette Servo
TransGo HD2 Shift Kit (thanks 454navyss)
TransGo Hardened Seperator plate
4L65E Internals
High Performance rebuild kit with:
5 radial grooved forward clutches and steels
2 radial grooved ovverrun clutches and steels
8 high energy 3-4 racing clutches and thick steels
5 lo reverse clutches and steels
4 reverse input clutches
Oversize 2/4 red racing band with welded anchors
B/W 29 element input sprag
Premium lo roller clutch
Beast Sunshell.
Complete bushing kit(with Teflon lined pump and tailshaft bushings)
Complete thrust washer kit including front end play selective washers

I know I have a few other Parts but can't recall what they are.
Here's a pic of the new trans casing. What color should I paint it? I'm thinking about doing Black since it'll look clean. Plus my truck is black.

20002wdchevy

iTrader: (3)

Bump, I'm following your build over hear in the corner! Whats the reasoning for running the wide band vs a better quality standard width? just curious

performabuilt

iTrader: (24)

We use the WIDE band in all three levels we have and the additional friction surface area is definatley worth it. Be sure either the reverse input drum is perfectly straight less than .005 out or new and check the new one too I have seen a couple of those that were out .

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

hey jake....

ever finish this your lil experiment? year old thread with no end result posted.

performabuilt

iTrader: (24)

Wow I didnt realize it was a year old lol