GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

.380" converter pad to flexplate gap

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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #11  
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Dick




















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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #12  
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I have a gauge for that
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Reason for that being.....I had a bolt round off once when trying to take it off and tried pulling the engine with it still attached to the engine and ended up breaking the trans pump...hence the blue and not red loctite.

Also had 2 of 3 bolts break off and the last one fall off when I got back to my driveway...hence recommending bolts that get full engagement.

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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #13  
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Ok, now i get what you were saying, lol. I used red last time so i'm aware of how much of a PITA they are to get out. I should use anti-seize, considering i'm still running a 60E.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 10:12 PM
  #14  
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I wouldnt use anti-seeze, I would just make sure you have grade 10.9 or better, and use a 6 sided socket if its a hex head. A 12 point socket on a 6 point head is more likely to round off.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 11:12 PM
  #15  
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I second that, DO NOT use a 12 point socket. They are the devil.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 07:55 AM
  #16  
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I would also check the converter pilot engagement. I imagine it is still good, but make sure it is going up into the crank still with all the extra washers.

Chris
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #17  
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My yank was needed 3 washers as well, as you have mentioned, the right bolts will work just fine. I ran the **** outta mine with no probs. I did use red loctite tho.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
I would just make sure you have grade 10.9 or better, and use a 6 sided socket if its a hex head.
That's what I got. Grabbed two different lengths so If the longer ones don't bottom out, that's what i'll use.

I saw some grade 12.9 bolts but they had a 6MM allen head...

The pilot should engage fine, as it seems to already be in the crankshaft a little.
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