What will a 10 bolt handle with just a tru trac?
Do yall weld the center to the tubes? Aftermarket axles? Girdle? Or just upgrade now because 1.4X sixty foot times are very soon to come.
AT 4400 lbs too!!!

 

Not all at once now...

 

girdle will help. just depends on whether you want to break it then fix or fix it before it breaks.
I put a ton of moser stuff in my old 95. it got all aftermarket 33 spline axles, spool, 9" ends, girdle, everything. i wanted it bulletproof.

 

Low 1.50's is getting after it pretty good on a stock rear. If I was in the same situation and didn't want to upgrade to a 9" (or the God forbidden 14 bolt lol), I'd tear it down and do this:

Get the housing in a jig and figure how bad off it is. If it appears to be off go ahead and straighten it out best you can. If it is farily close, weld the tubes to the housing. Throw it back in the jig, cut the ends off and reweld them back on. (DO NOT WELD THE REAREND WITH IT IN THE JIG). Put a new Eaton clutch type posi in it with the upgraded springs and clutch pack. Install an you an OEM gear set. Inspect the axles for true and make sure the spines are in good shape. If so, throw those back in. Assemble with a girdle and run a very nice oil with some Ford friction modifier.

Start breaking that on the regular and it's time for a different plan.

 

I recently discovered that my Bogarts fit 29.5 10.5 W slicks with no issues so I don't need to narrow or anything. Just need a rear to hang in there as I leave on more boost. The 1.52 came very easy on the new tires. High 1.4X are in the bag! Maybe I need a 9" . Is the 14 bolt that bad???

 

I wasn't talking about cutting the ends off and then rewelding them with a jig to shorten the rear. I was suggesting you to do it because once you weld the tubes to the housing, it'll be bent.

 

I got ya. I was thinking aftermarket axles would be the first move. Wasn't there a bolt in housing available for our trucks? Cant find it on moser page now .

 

Moser Engineering - M9 (FABRICATED HOUSING) MUSCLEPAK - Complete Rear End Assemblies

This what you were looking for? 9th option down

 

I honestly think you can get away with a girdle and some arp bearing cap studs for another year or (mid 9s at 4400+). You have to keep the flex on the housing and deflection on the gears down. Also lower gears like 3.73 or smaller helps. It's not a big money/guaranteed package but it can hold a good bit of power and a lot of transbrake hits.

Is your driveshaft steel or aluminum? Aluminum gives a good bit more flex on the hit is why I ask.

 

It's the ones that get smacked with a trans brake and nos that have the most issues. A turbo off the footbrake would be the most reliable.