Swapping the MAF only allows you to run a larger, less restrictive intake tube. But then you also need to ensure that the frequency response accurately reflects the airflow through the tube(calibration). If it is not installed in the exact same tubing configuration as the application that it came from, then just copying a ZL1 MAF table is not necessarily going to be accurate.

With either MAF, once you reach the GMT800 512 g/sec limit, the LS1B PCM is going to stop adding fuel. So with either one you are going to have to scale your tune. Same limit applies to SD.

 

Just go SD spend the 200.00 to get it well tune, if you spend 5k on the build judt pay the 200.00 and get it running properly that will save you the 5k build.

 

The OS upgrades are free now...update your HPTuners...they were also always free with EFILive.

OP, there are 2 ways to skin the cat...

1, you can change to a cartridge MAF like that, which can easily go into a larger housing, which keeps the frequency in a range that your PCM can measure, and as mentioned above you can also scale the tune using the MAF so that it doesn't max out the airflow (the Gen 3 computers maxed out at a much lower number than the ZL1 the MAF is coming out of).

2, you can remove the MAF, get an IAT and MAP sensor, wire them in, apply the 2 or 3-bar OS enhancement for free (if anyone still charges you 2 more credits for that, tell them no and tell them to download the newest update to HPTuners as it's completely free).

Personally I would go for the enhanced OS route...it has more flexibility and features for a boosted setup than using the MAF with the stock OS.

 

Depending on the year of the truck...sometimes you have to scale them anyways...usually on the drive by wire trucks when you make a LOT of power, the truck will go into limp mode over a certain airflow. There's a table for that, but in some calibrations there's a limit/problem that they haven't found, or can't change...so after a certain calculated flow it'll limp even if the table that should correct it is set to a higher airflow...in those you have to scale the injectors to trick the airflow calculation to avoid limp. Doesn't seem to happen on every one, and you have to make big power for it to be an issue...but it's there's

A proper MAF tune starts with a complete speed density tune first. Step one on a MAF tune is to disable the MAF and correct the VE table...then tune the MAF with VE disabled...then turn blending back on and make sure your transients are correct. A proper SD tune will run great year round in any weather. I live in New England...I regularly drive my vehicles when the temp is -10 and dry to over 100 and humid...and anywhere in between, raining, snowing, sunny, cloudy...doesn't matter.

 

Actually you can build your MAF table while your tuning in SD... Fail the MAF like usual but keep it plugged in, then just make a MAP that looks like your MAF table and log MAFFREQ and GM.DYNAIR. You can pre-populate it...

 

Yeah...you can do it that way too...either way though, a proper MAF tune includes VE.

I've seen the GM.DYNAIR trick work correctly on some vehicles and not correctly on others...usually it's pretty good AFTER the VE is close to finished. It's certainly close enough that when you re-enable the MAF the error isn't so obnoxious that it won't run, but might still require a little tweaking.

If you get really good at math, you can set it up to actually tune the VE and MAF in one log...long as you get a lot of data.

The problem vehicles are the ones with a lot of air turbulence over the MAF sensor...they wind up in the wrong cells at the wrong time when trying log the dynamic airmass...can be hard to correct them when tuning the MAF with the wideband too.

 

I really appreciate all of the feedback. I will be moving to speed density at some point but I have to figure out a fuel pressure issue before I can get my tune squared away...