View Poll Results: Best for boost?
Voters: 57. You may not vote on this poll
Your thoughts. Best for boost and why? 4.8, 5.3, 6.0
08-06-2012, 10:48 PM
#11
I'm not sure what you mean about how I'll use my truck. It's a toy. I want a super fun daily driver. It's not a race truck. It's not used for towing.
A few questions...
How far can I push my 5.3L with stock rod bolts and stock head bolts? I'd only be swapping my ls6 can in.
I found a super cheap 4.8L. It's a 2000 complete from intake to pan. It has 89K on it and I can pick it up for 300.00. It's from a manual transmission truck though. What's the difference engine wise? Anything other than flex plate/flywheel?
A few questions...
How far can I push my 5.3L with stock rod bolts and stock head bolts? I'd only be swapping my ls6 can in.
I found a super cheap 4.8L. It's a 2000 complete from intake to pan. It has 89K on it and I can pick it up for 300.00. It's from a manual transmission truck though. What's the difference engine wise? Anything other than flex plate/flywheel?
08-06-2012, 10:52 PM
#12
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A 4.8 is not going to drive like a 6.0 out of boost. All the guys boosting the **** out of the 4.8's are spinning the hell out of them, taking them to the track. More cubes will drive better/easier on the street. I thought you were after a 05 up engine, now your back to a old engine?? :/ Boost the engine in your truck, look for a 6.0 in the mean time.
08-06-2012, 10:56 PM
#13
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I wouldn't lose any sleep over the stock bottom end, it's one reason these motors are so fun to boost, they put up with a lot of abuse the way GM made them.
08-06-2012, 11:30 PM
#14
The responses I got in my other thread indicated that the rod difference is marginal. That Foose is building over 700 horsepower on an 03 block. The reason I was considering this 00' was because I can pick it up for 300.00 locally.
If you guys are saying head studs and rod bolts aren't necessary then I'll go back to square one. I'll turbo my stock 5.3. I'll install my ls6 cam and springs and reuse my existing lifters. I'll measure the pushrods and get the correct size.
I was under the impression that to make reliable power with a turbo head studs, ls9 gaskets, and rod bolts were in order. It seems like the data I'm collecting is contradicted every time I ask questions.
If you guys are saying head studs and rod bolts aren't necessary then I'll go back to square one. I'll turbo my stock 5.3. I'll install my ls6 cam and springs and reuse my existing lifters. I'll measure the pushrods and get the correct size.
I was under the impression that to make reliable power with a turbo head studs, ls9 gaskets, and rod bolts were in order. It seems like the data I'm collecting is contradicted every time I ask questions.
08-06-2012, 11:37 PM
#15
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It is prob in your best interest to use a better head gasket, ARP bolts atleast. Rods bolts are not a must. The ls6 cam is a proven performer. Foose has alot more going on then just boost. Alot more to it then just slapping on the turbo, boosting it. Your 5.3 should be fine on 12-15 lbs with just good bolts, gaskets.
08-07-2012, 12:55 AM
#16
It really doesn't matter which, as long as you have a good tune. It really depends on what your goals are. If you're talking about reliability of the engine under high load, the 4.8 will take the most abuse because of the rod angle geometry. Most people will blow the engine up for other reasons before that becomes a factor, though. FWIW, I hit 22psi with my 4.8 with head studs and stock gaskets.
08-07-2012, 03:00 AM
#17
Ahh, hell. everyone seems to think 6.0L is the way to go. Now I'll have to read up on that swap. I remember hearing that the earlier ones had iron heads. Any reason to avoid those?
I found this one on Craigslist. Is 1200.00 a good price?
2000 GM LQ4 6.0 Truck Motor 2500
About the tune... I'll be doing it myself. I've never tuned anything in my life so I'm really looking forward to learning how to do it. I've got several books and the Banish DVDs.
I found this one on Craigslist. Is 1200.00 a good price?
2000 GM LQ4 6.0 Truck Motor 2500
About the tune... I'll be doing it myself. I've never tuned anything in my life so I'm really looking forward to learning how to do it. I've got several books and the Banish DVDs.
08-07-2012, 04:36 AM
#18
Research. Research. Research.
Early iron head 6.0s were found in 1999-2000 Chevys. They have a .4" longer crank snout and will not work on the 4l60. Apparently they will work with the 4l80, 700r4, th350, and th400.
There appears to be no advantage to running iron heads. Unless you are circle track racing and your class requires it.
This isn't a huge issue since I'll be running the 4l80e any way. My 4l80e came out of a 1999 Surburban.
Also, these heads weigh 30 pounds more EACH.
I have a question about the 6.0 swap. My torque converter's bolt pattern is for the 5.3. Its a hybrid 4l80/5.3. Can I use a 5.3L flexplate on a 6.0?
Early iron head 6.0s were found in 1999-2000 Chevys. They have a .4" longer crank snout and will not work on the 4l60. Apparently they will work with the 4l80, 700r4, th350, and th400.
There appears to be no advantage to running iron heads. Unless you are circle track racing and your class requires it.
This isn't a huge issue since I'll be running the 4l80e any way. My 4l80e came out of a 1999 Surburban.
Also, these heads weigh 30 pounds more EACH.
I have a question about the 6.0 swap. My torque converter's bolt pattern is for the 5.3. Its a hybrid 4l80/5.3. Can I use a 5.3L flexplate on a 6.0?
