I think I have used 10w30 and 20w50. Zinc protects against high temperatures longer...so basically the oil will take longer to break down, especially in an abusive enviroment like a turbo. All of the racing oils dont have detergents though, so the oil needs to be changed more often.

 

Man, Rotella is way cheaper than Amsoil 0w-30 signature ($120 for 12 quarts)... I may consider switching to T5 after I run through this Amsoil box

What are your oil change intervals?

 

i buy the rotella 15w40 (live in florida) by the gallon is 14.99 and for a 2.5 gallon is $29.
tractor supply always has a good deal on it. 3000 miles change interval, according to everything i read that is the break down point of it. up to 3000 its great oil, after that it goes south quick.

 

I always buy Brad Penn off Ebay.

 

I've got 126k on my truck, always ran 5w-30 with the cam nitrous setup. But going boost ima go with a castrol 10w-40 conventional.

 

20-50 here

 

I run Royal Purple 5w30. I'm also still N/A. I've always had great luck with RP, it's all I've ran for years.

 

I use to run royal purple 5w30. But when I went turbo I noticed at 3-3500 miles when I would change it, it came out like water. Very thin and nasty looking. It seems like the turbo put way to much of a beating on it. Switched to rotella and motor sounded better and the oil looked better at change time.

 

My buddy used my garage to change out the royal purple in his truck. i went ahead and pulled the drain plug for him. Same thing as turbohoe said, **** came out like water. I think it's part of the reason you can "gain power" with royal purple.

Basically giving up protection for you engine to gain a couple ponies. I'll never run it...

 

Is the thicker oil to help with cooling of the turbo, or because of the increased heat associated with making more power?