what causes f/i setups to overheat?
Jul 7, 2011 | 06:44 PM
#1
what causes f/i setups to overheat?
So last winter I tested the HD in sub zero weather in the snow and it ran like a champ!
Now I want to test my setup in the heat of the summer in a California to las Vegas roadtrip.....what would cause my truck to overheat?
Now I want to test my setup in the heat of the summer in a California to las Vegas roadtrip.....what would cause my truck to overheat?
Jul 7, 2011 | 07:10 PM
#2
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
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From: Huntsville, AL
What kind of cooling do you have?
The real answer is engines are maybe 30% thermally efficient, so think of it like for every 10 watts of power you make, about 7 of those go straight to heat and dont really do anything for you. So the more power you engine makes the more wasted heat there is, and if the radiator isnt big enough or water pump doesnt move enough fluid then it gets too hot...
The real answer is engines are maybe 30% thermally efficient, so think of it like for every 10 watts of power you make, about 7 of those go straight to heat and dont really do anything for you. So the more power you engine makes the more wasted heat there is, and if the radiator isnt big enough or water pump doesnt move enough fluid then it gets too hot...
Jul 7, 2011 | 07:26 PM
#3
Gotta love cold weather performance! Well, except for tire traction.
If you stay out of boost you should be fine on hot days. Pulling in hot air, compressing and heating it further, then pumping it into a hot engine will get you if you don't have enough cooling capacity. Pulling a load, going fast and climbing lots of hills might also catch you with too small of a small rad. Having them stacked like in mine (tranny, intercooler, AC, engine) compounds cooling issues.
I like synthetic oils (and not that fake cracked stuff) on those hot days and on cold winter days. It gives added protection. Might want to look at running some 10-30 for the trip if you don't already.
If your tune you own, maybe add a tenth or two of richness. It's good insurance. And keep an eye on that temp gauge.
If you stay out of boost you should be fine on hot days. Pulling in hot air, compressing and heating it further, then pumping it into a hot engine will get you if you don't have enough cooling capacity. Pulling a load, going fast and climbing lots of hills might also catch you with too small of a small rad. Having them stacked like in mine (tranny, intercooler, AC, engine) compounds cooling issues.
I like synthetic oils (and not that fake cracked stuff) on those hot days and on cold winter days. It gives added protection. Might want to look at running some 10-30 for the trip if you don't already.
If your tune you own, maybe add a tenth or two of richness. It's good insurance. And keep an eye on that temp gauge.
Jul 7, 2011 | 07:38 PM
#5
Clutch fans or Efans Grip?
Do you have that Dexcool crap or reg. anti freeze?
Dex cool clogs.
I like watter wetter too, my trucks runs around 210 factory gauge on a 90+ * day even with hard driving.
Do you have that Dexcool crap or reg. anti freeze?
Dex cool clogs.
I like watter wetter too, my trucks runs around 210 factory gauge on a 90+ * day even with hard driving.
Jul 7, 2011 | 07:50 PM
#6
What kind of cooling do you have?
The real answer is engines are maybe 30% thermally efficient, so think of it like for every 10 watts of power you make, about 7 of those go straight to heat and dont really do anything for you. So the more power you engine makes the more wasted heat there is, and if the radiator isnt big enough or water pump doesnt move enough fluid then it gets too hot...
The real answer is engines are maybe 30% thermally efficient, so think of it like for every 10 watts of power you make, about 7 of those go straight to heat and dont really do anything for you. So the more power you engine makes the more wasted heat there is, and if the radiator isnt big enough or water pump doesnt move enough fluid then it gets too hot...
33% lost through the cooling system..
and 33% is lost through friction & power output.
I'm interested to try the new Royal Purple Water Additive to see if it actually works. I've used water wetter in the past and that works fine. Swift made a great point about compressing hot air even further by a turbo or charger. With radiators it's all about surface area to dissipate the heat and the water pump to move enough fluid. Compressing hot air = detonation. Always add more fuel to counteract...added fuel cools the cylinders a little bit more.
Last edited by Sierra1320; Jul 7, 2011 at 07:55 PM.
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Jul 7, 2011 | 10:24 PM
#8
You should be fine. On my turbo truck I ran 34" rad, efans and temps down the highway are 180. In traffic with AC going or idle it does heat up to 210 though. Our heat is 100 plus also.
