Well the #7 went bye bye...
#51
just another reason why i also upgrade dmy entire fuel system! new rails, dual pumps , hobbs switch and a boost ref fpr!! i plan on tuin gmine a bit rich i would hate to blow this motor.
#52
Originally Posted by Brian@JPA
reliable and 10psi of boost does not belong in the same sentence.
sure it does. good fuel or a little meth and proper tuning along with a flt tranny or 4l80e and it would run for a VERY long time.
i have never seen it but i am told bs3 will do individual cylinder fuel trims. kurt from w2w told me when they switch to the vic jr intake they still use this feature and add a little fuel to the inside 4 cylinders.
#53
Originally Posted by parish8
sure it does. good fuel or a little meth and proper tuning along with a flt tranny or 4l80e and it would run for a VERY long time.
i have never seen it but i am told bs3 will do individual cylinder fuel trims. kurt from w2w told me when they switch to the vic jr intake they still use this feature and add a little fuel to the inside 4 cylinders.
i should have said on a stock motor. It is in my opinion that there are too many band aids needed to run 10 psi on a stock motor and keep it running.....I consider meth a band aid.
#54
everyone has their own opinion on meth, i love it if your looking for another 5psi or so i think it kicks ***. after that it gets too hard to tune and you end up needing race fuel anyways.
all of my statements above were assuming a stock motor other than valve springs. if someone is blowing up stock motors by going over 10psi they are doing something wrong. probably 12-1 a/f ratio and 20deg or more of timing or even everything right but trying to do it on pump gas.
all of my statements above were assuming a stock motor other than valve springs. if someone is blowing up stock motors by going over 10psi they are doing something wrong. probably 12-1 a/f ratio and 20deg or more of timing or even everything right but trying to do it on pump gas.
#55
Originally Posted by GMChasLS1
So what would it take to do this? I think I could drill and tap the fittings to add some cooling hose. Where would be the proper place to attach this to the cooling system? How much flow is needed or is it simply steam that needs to be evacuated from the heads?
Andrew
#56
Originally Posted by Bill Reid
Oh come on Slow... not picking a fight
Your statements are contridictory to, at least, me though. But thats nothing you or I will lose any sleep over. It all good
You are apparantly one of few, the only one I know of, that can get away with 12-14psi on a stock motor for any length of time. I may not know much about tuning... but I do know a thing or 2 about fueling and putting motors together using stock intake manifolds... regarding fueling... you are spot on there. More often than not a truckload of money is spent on a motor and/or forced induction and little to nothing spent on fueling... let alone the rest of the drivetrain. I have seen it too many times and how it aggravates tuners...
Generally I am an inquisitive person. I like asking questions... and I like sharing ideas. Some are good and some aren't... and the ratio is probably no different than anyone elses that shares the experience. When I speculate I say so... when I voice an opinion I state thats all it is... an opinion.
This is an open forum man... we share ideas here... share problems here... ask alot of questions. Telling someone its "simple... figure it out yourself" is also telling everyone else creepin' in this thread to do the same. Its OK though...I don't take personally... after all this is the internet
Hopefully we can get this thread back on track so others are inclined to share their experiences here as well. I apologize to Slowhawk and everyone else if it appears I was picking a fight.
Bill
Your statements are contridictory to, at least, me though. But thats nothing you or I will lose any sleep over. It all good
You are apparantly one of few, the only one I know of, that can get away with 12-14psi on a stock motor for any length of time. I may not know much about tuning... but I do know a thing or 2 about fueling and putting motors together using stock intake manifolds... regarding fueling... you are spot on there. More often than not a truckload of money is spent on a motor and/or forced induction and little to nothing spent on fueling... let alone the rest of the drivetrain. I have seen it too many times and how it aggravates tuners...Generally I am an inquisitive person. I like asking questions... and I like sharing ideas. Some are good and some aren't... and the ratio is probably no different than anyone elses that shares the experience. When I speculate I say so... when I voice an opinion I state thats all it is... an opinion.
This is an open forum man... we share ideas here... share problems here... ask alot of questions. Telling someone its "simple... figure it out yourself" is also telling everyone else creepin' in this thread to do the same. Its OK though...I don't take personally... after all this is the internet

Hopefully we can get this thread back on track so others are inclined to share their experiences here as well. I apologize to Slowhawk and everyone else if it appears I was picking a fight.
Bill

Tuning is the biggest part.The vehicles will almost always keep picking up power with timing and leaner A/F's. The biggest thing is to know when to stop.We run high boost to build serious midrange but limit power up top by timing.This is how my personal Vette was making 14lbs but only 500 peak hp,but it made 500hp at 4800rpm and held it to 6600rpm.That let it run consistant 10.7's at the track in a M6 with stock engine,gears ect.
Last edited by XLR8NSS; May 8, 2007 at 09:34 PM.
#57
Originally Posted by Brian@JPA
reliable and 10psi of boost does not belong in the same sentence. I would just have the motor rebuilt with forged parts and leave the turbo installed. Its going to be about the same price either way you go.
#58
Just to chime in here with some of my experience with this...
In 12/03 I bought 2 new, identical 2004 Tahoes with 5.3's.
From day 1, one Tahoe felt underpowered compared to the other...
Two months later, they both got brandy new Whipple superchargers inatalled at the dealership and were programmed with the Whipple programmer. The dealership also sold me an extended warranty.
Four months after that, they went to Slowhawk for custom tunes, which I was (and still am) pleased with. Four months after that, both tranny's exploded and were rebuilt to last.
One month later, the stronger running Tahoe went back to Slowhawk for a blower cam and some other goodies. When it came out of his shop, it was awesome!
One week later, the weaker running Tahoe went in for the same upgrades and I went to the Carribean for a week with Wifey for our 10th. Three days later, I was sitting on the deck at the hotel feeling great in the sun when I got a call from Slowhawk. He said, before doing the cam swap he leak tested the motor and found that #7 was shot.
*Two important things at this point: the second truck always felt
weaker and they both always ran the original Whipple pulley, maybe 5# boost...?
I called on the dealership to honor the warranty and they told me NFW due to the Whipples not being a factory option; this is a whole different story.
What is important is that while I fought about the blown piston, I made it perfectly clear that this truck always felt weaker, before the blowers went on. Although GM wouldn't honor the warranty, I did learn that there is a GM bulletin floating around that clearly states that they know there's a problem with some V8 engines having a defect. Furthermore, some customers may come in complaining about a "knock" in the motor. That bullletin is floating around somewhere and if I had a link to it, I'd add it right now.
My point is this: Some GM V8's are knowingly coming out of the factory with a knock problem. It could be an over-bore issue, could be ring failure, I'll leave it to someone else to explain. However, if someone like myself or one of you other "Performance" enthusiast guys get one of these lemon flavored motors, it's going to be disappointing enough to make you want to modify it to make it put out more power. Then, the already flawed engine certainly can't handle the power and BOOM!
I contest that if you were to go on to any GM lot, anywhere, and sample test the compression of several brand new V8's, you'd find that there's a much bigger QC problem than anyone's talking about.
And, to the guy who started this thread, buy a rotating assembly, bore that motor and build it to handle the turbo! Your truck is so ridiculously heavy that you'll quickly be disappointed without the power and you'll either sell it off, hate it, or start modding all over again. Believe me brother, check my sig.
In 12/03 I bought 2 new, identical 2004 Tahoes with 5.3's.
From day 1, one Tahoe felt underpowered compared to the other...
Two months later, they both got brandy new Whipple superchargers inatalled at the dealership and were programmed with the Whipple programmer. The dealership also sold me an extended warranty.
Four months after that, they went to Slowhawk for custom tunes, which I was (and still am) pleased with. Four months after that, both tranny's exploded and were rebuilt to last.
One month later, the stronger running Tahoe went back to Slowhawk for a blower cam and some other goodies. When it came out of his shop, it was awesome!
One week later, the weaker running Tahoe went in for the same upgrades and I went to the Carribean for a week with Wifey for our 10th. Three days later, I was sitting on the deck at the hotel feeling great in the sun when I got a call from Slowhawk. He said, before doing the cam swap he leak tested the motor and found that #7 was shot.
*Two important things at this point: the second truck always felt
weaker and they both always ran the original Whipple pulley, maybe 5# boost...?
I called on the dealership to honor the warranty and they told me NFW due to the Whipples not being a factory option; this is a whole different story.
What is important is that while I fought about the blown piston, I made it perfectly clear that this truck always felt weaker, before the blowers went on. Although GM wouldn't honor the warranty, I did learn that there is a GM bulletin floating around that clearly states that they know there's a problem with some V8 engines having a defect. Furthermore, some customers may come in complaining about a "knock" in the motor. That bullletin is floating around somewhere and if I had a link to it, I'd add it right now.
My point is this: Some GM V8's are knowingly coming out of the factory with a knock problem. It could be an over-bore issue, could be ring failure, I'll leave it to someone else to explain. However, if someone like myself or one of you other "Performance" enthusiast guys get one of these lemon flavored motors, it's going to be disappointing enough to make you want to modify it to make it put out more power. Then, the already flawed engine certainly can't handle the power and BOOM!
I contest that if you were to go on to any GM lot, anywhere, and sample test the compression of several brand new V8's, you'd find that there's a much bigger QC problem than anyone's talking about.
And, to the guy who started this thread, buy a rotating assembly, bore that motor and build it to handle the turbo! Your truck is so ridiculously heavy that you'll quickly be disappointed without the power and you'll either sell it off, hate it, or start modding all over again. Believe me brother, check my sig.
#59
T- I think I am going to have my new truck compression tested. I figure why not at this point before they won't do anything about it....or most likely they won't do anything about it anyway. Mine has always left like a turd since the day I bought it. Well the Nelson tune helped it out a little.
To johnrusso- As for taking off a blower/turbo and going back to stock. I did that with my 96 with just the little powerdyne on it and now that truck is so BORING to drive. I go WOT all the time just to make it seem better. So I agree, you are going to be depressed about your stock vehicle once you have driven it with the extra power.
But on the other hand, if you want to get rid of that STS, let me know...I would be interested.
To johnrusso- As for taking off a blower/turbo and going back to stock. I did that with my 96 with just the little powerdyne on it and now that truck is so BORING to drive. I go WOT all the time just to make it seem better. So I agree, you are going to be depressed about your stock vehicle once you have driven it with the extra power.
But on the other hand, if you want to get rid of that STS, let me know...I would be interested.
#60
I would think that the "knock" problem from the factory is actually the "piston slap" problem. There is just on way that you can sell an engine that knocks, it wont get better and it wont last.



