turbo oil return, what kind of pump???
01-26-2009, 07:07 PM
#21
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I had that happen on my truck and the pressure relief valve in the oil pump was stuck open by a bit of dirt. Do you have oil pressure now? If so then maybe it just flushed itself out. It didn't seem to do any damage and I ran it at idle a couple of times to check for oil pressure in case it was the pressure gauge that went bad.
01-26-2009, 08:00 PM
#22
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I bought the Reverso pump that was listed in my thread a year ago and so far it works great. At the time the STS pump was $379 and the reverso was $180. I have daily driven my truck since I put it on for about 10k miles and it is still working great. The one weird thing about this pump is that it is so quiet compared to the STS pump I can't tell that it is running and I run it on high all of the time. It was so quiet on high when I first installed it I crawled underneath the truck everyday for about two weeks to be sure that it was on.LOL
01-26-2009, 09:43 PM
#23
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i think i can do this.
by running a super cooler up front to lower the oil temp, from the cooler down the line to the rear in to a second cooler.
from what i read the turbo is oil cooled, a rear mount runs much cooler then a front mount, it is also recamended to run the oil through a oil cooler before it reaches the turbo, if i can get the oil temp lower then 140 i can use a holly style fuel pump to send the oil back up to the motor.
140 is what most hot water heaters are set to in a home.
i also read that the minimum oil pressure for a bushing type turbo is 30 psi,
a max of 45 psi, any higher and the oil seals will blow.
i need some kind of regulator if my oil pressure is higher then 45 to get it under control.
by running a super cooler up front to lower the oil temp, from the cooler down the line to the rear in to a second cooler.
from what i read the turbo is oil cooled, a rear mount runs much cooler then a front mount, it is also recamended to run the oil through a oil cooler before it reaches the turbo, if i can get the oil temp lower then 140 i can use a holly style fuel pump to send the oil back up to the motor.
140 is what most hot water heaters are set to in a home.
i also read that the minimum oil pressure for a bushing type turbo is 30 psi,
a max of 45 psi, any higher and the oil seals will blow.
i need some kind of regulator if my oil pressure is higher then 45 to get it under control.
01-27-2009, 12:02 AM
#24
TECH Junkie
I had that happen on my truck and the pressure relief valve in the oil pump was stuck open by a bit of dirt. Do you have oil pressure now? If so then maybe it just flushed itself out. It didn't seem to do any damage and I ran it at idle a couple of times to check for oil pressure in case it was the pressure gauge that went bad.
01-27-2009, 05:34 PM
#25
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i think i can do this.
by running a super cooler up front to lower the oil temp, from the cooler down the line to the rear in to a second cooler.
from what i read the turbo is oil cooled, a rear mount runs much cooler then a front mount, it is also recamended to run the oil through a oil cooler before it reaches the turbo, if i can get the oil temp lower then 140 i can use a holly style fuel pump to send the oil back up to the motor.
140 is what most hot water heaters are set to in a home.
i also read that the minimum oil pressure for a bushing type turbo is 30 psi,
a max of 45 psi, any higher and the oil seals will blow.
i need some kind of regulator if my oil pressure is higher then 45 to get it under control.
by running a super cooler up front to lower the oil temp, from the cooler down the line to the rear in to a second cooler.
from what i read the turbo is oil cooled, a rear mount runs much cooler then a front mount, it is also recamended to run the oil through a oil cooler before it reaches the turbo, if i can get the oil temp lower then 140 i can use a holly style fuel pump to send the oil back up to the motor.
140 is what most hot water heaters are set to in a home.
i also read that the minimum oil pressure for a bushing type turbo is 30 psi,
a max of 45 psi, any higher and the oil seals will blow.
i need some kind of regulator if my oil pressure is higher then 45 to get it under control.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-OIL1
01-27-2009, 06:24 PM
#26
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I was told that the sts pump was still pumping, however I lost most of my engine oil pressure. It has a ported oil pump in the engine. I have great engine oil pressure 'till it warms up and then it drops to about 10lbs at idle and not normal pressure at above idle...ideas?
On your ported oil pump in your engine. Since you seem to have great pressure, when the oil is thicker from being cold, I think you should look into your pressure relief valve in the oil pump. You can take the pump out ( it is a long job) and check the pressure relief valve. If the spring seems to be weak you can put in a new one or try a stiffer one but this is not a trial and error type of job due to the time it takes to do. So make sure the valve is not binding, that it closes all the way and the passage and valve are not galled. Since you have it out I would see if you can get a new spring for it. Then take a couple of washers that you get with pop type rivets and put them under the spring in the pressure relief valve . I have two in mine but they sometimes add more to help keep the pressure up under higher revs. Ask around, but if you are revving it to 6K or higher you might want to add three or four. Ask the guys who built your engine or ported your pump what they may recommend.
Sorry for side tracking your thread PappyDan.
01-28-2009, 01:07 AM
#27
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Thanks for the great info.
01-28-2009, 04:37 AM
#28
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so you are telling me that I hooked the pump, alarm, and everything that goes with it wrong? I am virtually positive I have installed more sts, kits than most and have not had one alarm quit working.
Now, that being said I could not hear the alarm over my stereo in the truck, and it was night time. So who knows how long it was before I noticed it.
I will take any system that is fool proof over that *** turbo any day of the week.
Bottom line, a **** poor designed system, a **** poor alarm, and **** poor customer service when I asked if they would warranty the pump and they told me no.
out one pump 200 bucks and one motor 4000. NEXT.
Now, that being said I could not hear the alarm over my stereo in the truck, and it was night time. So who knows how long it was before I noticed it.
I will take any system that is fool proof over that *** turbo any day of the week.
Bottom line, a **** poor designed system, a **** poor alarm, and **** poor customer service when I asked if they would warranty the pump and they told me no.
out one pump 200 bucks and one motor 4000. NEXT.
Sounds like someone ^ needs a tissue.
I have always wondered about the STS oil pump and weather the system actually worked or not. Any time I see a thread with STS or remote turbo I take a look just out of curiosity and I have found 1 thing to be true...
IF SOMETHING IS INSTALLED WRONG IT WILL NOT WORK!!!
This holds true for any type of power adder! I don't think that any power adder is completly fool proof. There is always someone who will screw something up and by the sounds of it you (BC) have done your fair share of that...
From what I have heard the STS system is solid. That is not to say that there has been some or many issues with the oiling system but I wouldn't point the finger at STS so quickly. I have both seen and ridden in a few STS cars and they were fast as hell and the owners were very happy with the product as well as the customer service.
As far as the pump selection gies it seems like the reverso pump is a good way to go but I also found a pump from turbo werks that looks really nice...
http://www.sound-performance.com/m10...rks/index.html
Good luck with the build
Last edited by LS1's RULE!; 01-29-2009 at 10:37 AM.
01-28-2009, 10:49 PM
#29
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wow 350 for a pump.
it may come down to that if i cannot do what im trying to do.
i know next to nothing about a turbo system.
you want to know about a powerdyne, ask any question you want.
need bearrings, i'll give you a web site where a set will cost under 40.
need a internal belt, i have the gates id and catolog number for the GT belt.
several web sites i have visited like STS and garret and only a few recomend
useing an oil cooler to lower the oil temp because the turbo is oil cooled.
their is a BIG diffrence between a front mount and a rear mount system.
the main is heat, their can a temp diffrence of 600+ degrees between a front and rear mounted turbo.
a turbo is very easy to screw up.
they also recomend that cycleing the oil through a hot turbo until it is cool enough
after the engine is shut off, or a burnt form of oil called coking will happen on the bearrings and speed up the process of it going out.
if the job is properly done and everything is set right a turbo system will last as long as the motor before it needs to be replaced.
like saying if the basic engine life is 250,000 miles then your turbo should last just as long.
some rear mount systems run so cool that the use of an intercooler is not needed.
also recomended is to have the oil filtered before it enters the turbo to keep any kind of debree out of it.
if i can lower the oil temp low enough, i can use a holly type pump to send the cool oil back to the block.
im getting a good idea of how to set it up and what all i will need.
im basicly half way, so im just gona take my time, get the right parts and im good to go.
it may come down to that if i cannot do what im trying to do.
i know next to nothing about a turbo system.
you want to know about a powerdyne, ask any question you want.
need bearrings, i'll give you a web site where a set will cost under 40.
need a internal belt, i have the gates id and catolog number for the GT belt.
several web sites i have visited like STS and garret and only a few recomend
useing an oil cooler to lower the oil temp because the turbo is oil cooled.
their is a BIG diffrence between a front mount and a rear mount system.
the main is heat, their can a temp diffrence of 600+ degrees between a front and rear mounted turbo.
a turbo is very easy to screw up.
they also recomend that cycleing the oil through a hot turbo until it is cool enough
after the engine is shut off, or a burnt form of oil called coking will happen on the bearrings and speed up the process of it going out.
if the job is properly done and everything is set right a turbo system will last as long as the motor before it needs to be replaced.
like saying if the basic engine life is 250,000 miles then your turbo should last just as long.
some rear mount systems run so cool that the use of an intercooler is not needed.
also recomended is to have the oil filtered before it enters the turbo to keep any kind of debree out of it.
if i can lower the oil temp low enough, i can use a holly type pump to send the cool oil back to the block.
im getting a good idea of how to set it up and what all i will need.
im basicly half way, so im just gona take my time, get the right parts and im good to go.
01-29-2009, 10:54 PM
#30
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Ok, even though you're cooling the oil pre-turbo/post-engine it's still going to be hotter than a **** after the turbo. You're crazy if you think that'll it'll only be 140*F post turbo if you run a cooler before the turbo. It might be lower if you run a water cooled turbo, be even then it'll be well above burn temperature. If run the cooler post turbo, but pre pump, then you're asking for trouble too. The oil will back up as it works its way through the heat exchanger and might cause it to push the seals.
Also, holley fuel pumps are crap. Even for fuel they're...crap. I've had several friends have them fail. The blue, red, black or whatever pumps aren't the greatest IMO.
The oil pump is the STS kit's achieles heel and a lot of people worry about it or hate it. But what I find ironic is that ALL OF US, regardless of the kind of FI we use, rely on another electric pump of sorts. And that will most definitely take out an engine it quits.
Along the same lines a fuse or relay take out your engine too. My last straw besides shitty boost lag, was the fact that the POS blew a fuse for no f'ing reason. I was paying attention, so I was able to pull over and address the situation, and I was about 1/4mi from work. However it was a huge PITA, and a constant reminder that it pivoted on a $.05 fuse.......but so is a fuel pump.
Also, holley fuel pumps are crap. Even for fuel they're...crap. I've had several friends have them fail. The blue, red, black or whatever pumps aren't the greatest IMO.
The oil pump is the STS kit's achieles heel and a lot of people worry about it or hate it. But what I find ironic is that ALL OF US, regardless of the kind of FI we use, rely on another electric pump of sorts. And that will most definitely take out an engine it quits.
Along the same lines a fuse or relay take out your engine too. My last straw besides shitty boost lag, was the fact that the POS blew a fuse for no f'ing reason. I was paying attention, so I was able to pull over and address the situation, and I was about 1/4mi from work. However it was a huge PITA, and a constant reminder that it pivoted on a $.05 fuse.......but so is a fuel pump.