Turbo heat management ideas
05-08-2017, 10:40 AM
#21
TECH Apprentice
bringin this back from the dead!
I've had my build finished for almost a year with no problems (save a 4l80e tailshaft housing) and it never got hotter than 210*F except when running A/C. I recently took my turbo RCSB down to tail of the dragon (bike and stuff in back) and she got real toasty in the mountains on the drive home up to about 230-235*F on some of the real long uphill straights. This was converter locked up cruising at about 70 the whole way, manifold pressure around 8inhg vacuum
Some specs on the setup are;
bone stock 5.3L oil pan to valve covers
on3 7875
4l80e with 2800 circle d stall
flex fuel conversion
stock 28" radiator (i know i know not good)
ls1 efans
tru cool 40k trans cooler
huge ebay 4" core intercooler
fully heat wrapped hot side and turbo blanket
I'm thinking I need to just bite the bullet and get a 34" rad and the big truck efans. The truck has about 150k on it, so I was planning on doing a water pump and a 180*F thermostat as well when I put in my LS6 cam. Just wondering if anyone else if running into problems like this, maybe when towing or in real hot climates
I've had my build finished for almost a year with no problems (save a 4l80e tailshaft housing) and it never got hotter than 210*F except when running A/C. I recently took my turbo RCSB down to tail of the dragon (bike and stuff in back) and she got real toasty in the mountains on the drive home up to about 230-235*F on some of the real long uphill straights. This was converter locked up cruising at about 70 the whole way, manifold pressure around 8inhg vacuum
Some specs on the setup are;
bone stock 5.3L oil pan to valve covers
on3 7875
4l80e with 2800 circle d stall
flex fuel conversion
stock 28" radiator (i know i know not good)
ls1 efans
tru cool 40k trans cooler
huge ebay 4" core intercooler
fully heat wrapped hot side and turbo blanket
I'm thinking I need to just bite the bullet and get a 34" rad and the big truck efans. The truck has about 150k on it, so I was planning on doing a water pump and a 180*F thermostat as well when I put in my LS6 cam. Just wondering if anyone else if running into problems like this, maybe when towing or in real hot climates
180f thermostat
34 rad
70-30 mix
05-08-2017, 11:43 AM
#22
bringin this back from the dead!
I've had my build finished for almost a year with no problems (save a 4l80e tailshaft housing) and it never got hotter than 210*F except when running A/C. I recently took my turbo RCSB down to tail of the dragon (bike and stuff in back) and she got real toasty in the mountains on the drive home up to about 230-235*F on some of the real long uphill straights. This was converter locked up cruising at about 70 the whole way, manifold pressure around 8inhg vacuum
Some specs on the setup are;
bone stock 5.3L oil pan to valve covers
on3 7875
4l80e with 2800 circle d stall
flex fuel conversion
stock 28" radiator (i know i know not good)
ls1 efans
tru cool 40k trans cooler
huge ebay 4" core intercooler
fully heat wrapped hot side and turbo blanket
I'm thinking I need to just bite the bullet and get a 34" rad and the big truck efans. The truck has about 150k on it, so I was planning on doing a water pump and a 180*F thermostat as well when I put in my LS6 cam. Just wondering if anyone else if running into problems like this, maybe when towing or in real hot climates
I've had my build finished for almost a year with no problems (save a 4l80e tailshaft housing) and it never got hotter than 210*F except when running A/C. I recently took my turbo RCSB down to tail of the dragon (bike and stuff in back) and she got real toasty in the mountains on the drive home up to about 230-235*F on some of the real long uphill straights. This was converter locked up cruising at about 70 the whole way, manifold pressure around 8inhg vacuum
Some specs on the setup are;
bone stock 5.3L oil pan to valve covers
on3 7875
4l80e with 2800 circle d stall
flex fuel conversion
stock 28" radiator (i know i know not good)
ls1 efans
tru cool 40k trans cooler
huge ebay 4" core intercooler
fully heat wrapped hot side and turbo blanket
I'm thinking I need to just bite the bullet and get a 34" rad and the big truck efans. The truck has about 150k on it, so I was planning on doing a water pump and a 180*F thermostat as well when I put in my LS6 cam. Just wondering if anyone else if running into problems like this, maybe when towing or in real hot climates
05-08-2017, 02:41 PM
#23
TECH Apprentice
A thermostat isn't going to change jack in the temperature range everyone is talking about. You need to get the heat out of the engine and that requires heat exchangers or to better utilize the ones you have. You can increase the effectiveness by increasing coolant flow, by increasing airflow over them, improving the working fluids' heat capacity, or by increasing the heat transfer coefficients (think water wetter). A thermostat that is full open by 100 F vs one full open at 200 F won't make a bit of difference at 210 F.
Most people don't consider how much heat their coolant has to reject to the atmosphere when you start increasing the power. Most get away with it because they don't use it for more than a few seconds at a time, but even a simple timing advance adds more power but also increases the amount of heat going into the coolant due to the change in the in cylinder residence time. (it moves the energy from exhaust heat rejection to coolant). With a turbo, now the energy that used to go out the exhaust becomes turbine power and is used for compressing air.
This is a little longwinded, but imagine your truck's most powerful engine option 6.0 or 6.2 running full tilt on a 125 degree day up the longest grade in the country. You can bet that your stock cooling system will handle that without overheating, but any well engineered system won't allow for much more.
Most people don't consider how much heat their coolant has to reject to the atmosphere when you start increasing the power. Most get away with it because they don't use it for more than a few seconds at a time, but even a simple timing advance adds more power but also increases the amount of heat going into the coolant due to the change in the in cylinder residence time. (it moves the energy from exhaust heat rejection to coolant). With a turbo, now the energy that used to go out the exhaust becomes turbine power and is used for compressing air.
This is a little longwinded, but imagine your truck's most powerful engine option 6.0 or 6.2 running full tilt on a 125 degree day up the longest grade in the country. You can bet that your stock cooling system will handle that without overheating, but any well engineered system won't allow for much more.
05-09-2017, 07:13 AM
#24
A thermostat isn't going to change jack in the temperature range everyone is talking about. You need to get the heat out of the engine and that requires heat exchangers or to better utilize the ones you have. You can increase the effectiveness by increasing coolant flow, by increasing airflow over them, improving the working fluids' heat capacity, or by increasing the heat transfer coefficients (think water wetter). A thermostat that is full open by 100 F vs one full open at 200 F won't make a bit of difference at 210 F.
Most people don't consider how much heat their coolant has to reject to the atmosphere when you start increasing the power. Most get away with it because they don't use it for more than a few seconds at a time, but even a simple timing advance adds more power but also increases the amount of heat going into the coolant due to the change in the in cylinder residence time. (it moves the energy from exhaust heat rejection to coolant). With a turbo, now the energy that used to go out the exhaust becomes turbine power and is used for compressing air.
This is a little longwinded, but imagine your truck's most powerful engine option 6.0 or 6.2 running full tilt on a 125 degree day up the longest grade in the country. You can bet that your stock cooling system will handle that without overheating, but any well engineered system won't allow for much more.
Most people don't consider how much heat their coolant has to reject to the atmosphere when you start increasing the power. Most get away with it because they don't use it for more than a few seconds at a time, but even a simple timing advance adds more power but also increases the amount of heat going into the coolant due to the change in the in cylinder residence time. (it moves the energy from exhaust heat rejection to coolant). With a turbo, now the energy that used to go out the exhaust becomes turbine power and is used for compressing air.
This is a little longwinded, but imagine your truck's most powerful engine option 6.0 or 6.2 running full tilt on a 125 degree day up the longest grade in the country. You can bet that your stock cooling system will handle that without overheating, but any well engineered system won't allow for much more.
05-09-2017, 07:31 AM
#25
bringin this back from the dead!
I've had my build finished for almost a year with no problems (save a 4l80e tailshaft housing) and it never got hotter than 210*F except when running A/C. I recently took my turbo RCSB down to tail of the dragon (bike and stuff in back) and she got real toasty in the mountains on the drive home up to about 230-235*F on some of the real long uphill straights. This was converter locked up cruising at about 70 the whole way, manifold pressure around 8inhg vacuum
Some specs on the setup are;
bone stock 5.3L oil pan to valve covers
on3 7875
4l80e with 2800 circle d stall
flex fuel conversion
stock 28" radiator (i know i know not good)
ls1 efans
tru cool 40k trans cooler
huge ebay 4" core intercooler
fully heat wrapped hot side and turbo blanket
I'm thinking I need to just bite the bullet and get a 34" rad and the big truck efans. The truck has about 150k on it, so I was planning on doing a water pump and a 180*F thermostat as well when I put in my LS6 cam. Just wondering if anyone else if running into problems like this, maybe when towing or in real hot climates
I've had my build finished for almost a year with no problems (save a 4l80e tailshaft housing) and it never got hotter than 210*F except when running A/C. I recently took my turbo RCSB down to tail of the dragon (bike and stuff in back) and she got real toasty in the mountains on the drive home up to about 230-235*F on some of the real long uphill straights. This was converter locked up cruising at about 70 the whole way, manifold pressure around 8inhg vacuum
Some specs on the setup are;
bone stock 5.3L oil pan to valve covers
on3 7875
4l80e with 2800 circle d stall
flex fuel conversion
stock 28" radiator (i know i know not good)
ls1 efans
tru cool 40k trans cooler
huge ebay 4" core intercooler
fully heat wrapped hot side and turbo blanket
I'm thinking I need to just bite the bullet and get a 34" rad and the big truck efans. The truck has about 150k on it, so I was planning on doing a water pump and a 180*F thermostat as well when I put in my LS6 cam. Just wondering if anyone else if running into problems like this, maybe when towing or in real hot climates
05-09-2017, 09:11 AM
#26
It's the perfect combo for me, I don't drive it too crazy just a fun daily driver that I can haul stuff with and scare people on the highway. It is a little sluggish in first, but I just spin 1 tire anyways so until I get the the tru-trac installed it doesn't really bother me. I think the 4.11's would be a good solution for you though, but would definitely be better with a stall
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