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Turbo build pics....Finally!

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Old May 26, 2006 | 09:47 PM
  #71  
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what I meant by heat transfer is that the hot intake air will be cooled by the ambient air, but if its near the exhaust, engine or cooling system, you may not want the outside air to tranfer to the intake air. Those ebay kits do seem to be the way to go, I know a guy that turbo'd a beemer with one and it worked out slick for him.
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Old May 26, 2006 | 09:58 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
Intake piping is a aluminum, thin-wall polished kit I got off of ebay. Intended for the world of rice i'm sure. I think I have $87 in all the intake tubing. I used it because I couldn't turn down the price. If I was to do it again I would use mandrel bent mild steel and mig it together. The weight savings is minimal, 10lbs maybe, on a 4500lb truck. The disipation of heat, well how long does that air actually stay in the piping in order to heat soak at 6000 rpm? If you are really worried about it then ceramic coat it. Like I said before, this build was done quick and dirty and the average person could replicate it. No, it wast done the best way for system efficiency or asthetics. Nor was it done to the best of my abilities. It will win no shows or engineering competitions. Does it work? Yes. Does it work well enough for me? Hell yes. Is that all that matters? A BIG hell yes.
As long as it works that is all that counts, good deal man I can wait to see some power numbers.
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Old May 26, 2006 | 10:22 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
Thanks guys. I knew I was going to catch **** when I was building it. I originally said that I wasn't going to post any pics until I got the pipes coated and everything 100% but some just couldn't wait Thanks Keith!
Anytime. Just let me know when you do your next welding project.

I say 700 at the rear wheels, with the same torque!
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Old May 27, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
I have t-bolt clamps just not on yet.
I guess we will find out how hard I plan on pushing it
Jose @ forcedinductions said they had had problems with my ebay intercooler balooning out. I asked him at what boost and he said "over 20". I doubt I will have a problem with it then.
MAF being low mounted? It is a totally sealed unit. I would't be affraid to put it behind the tire in the wheel well if I had to.

How do you know when your intercooler is balloning? What is the symptoms?
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Old May 27, 2006 | 04:12 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by TURBO8
How do you know when your intercooler is balloning? What is the symptoms?
I'm sure it will ballon out permanantly and maybe even bust. Mine is made out of some pretty thick material so maybe it will hold. It is MUCH heavier than I expected it to be. Probably 25lbs.
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Old May 27, 2006 | 05:07 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
It is MUCH heavier than I expected it to be. Probably 25lbs.
I know what you mean. When I got mine, which is similar to yours, I had to run and find a magnet because I couldn't believe that aluminum could weigh that much!
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Old May 29, 2006 | 05:02 PM
  #77  
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Hey, what is the spec's on that clutch? Is that the new 11 inch? How much hp does it support?
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Old May 29, 2006 | 07:44 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by TURBO8
Hey, what is the spec's on that clutch? Is that the new 11 inch? How much hp does it support?
My Centerforce Dual Friction is the new 12"(LS1 style of course). Not sure about the hp capability. I'm going to put a spacer behind the throwout bearing in the next day or so while i'm off to see if that fixes my shifting problems.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 08:44 AM
  #79  
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Is the the 6 puck version they're advertising in all the rags now? If so, that might actually have a lot of holding power.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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No. It is like the regular df's accept one thing I notice is it really isn't "dual friction" It has the kevlar/resin pads on both sides of the disc. I like that aspect. I bought it because I had real good luck out of a dual friction once before (older one) and I was out of money for the build for a high dollar one. I found this one for $333 and thought i'd try it.
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