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turbo blowing off my fmic pipe?

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Old 01-19-2008, 10:25 AM
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A little trick I did was flare the ends of the pipe with a blunt punch. the tip was about 3/8 in dia. I would set the pipe on some wood and hit the inside of the pipe with the punch. Rotate the pipe alittle and hit it agian, It made nice little flares. It's cheap, and it seams to work good. I do have t-clamps, but I haven't put them on yet..
Old 01-19-2008, 11:02 AM
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tbolts will get you a few more psi. seems like my pipes started pushing off around13 or 14psi with the tbolts on a smooth tube.

i tried rolling a lip in the pipe but the pipe was too thick to work with. anything you can do to get 3-4 bumps in the pipe will help. i welded a bead about 1/2long near the end of the pipe in 4 spots. with that i have been a ways over 20psi.
Old 01-19-2008, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by parish8
tbolts will get you a few more psi. seems like my pipes started pushing off around13 or 14psi with the tbolts on a smooth tube.

i tried rolling a lip in the pipe but the pipe was too thick to work with. anything you can do to get 3-4 bumps in the pipe will help. i welded a bead about 1/2long near the end of the pipe in 4 spots. with that i have been a ways over 20psi.
that was my next suggestion if you couldn't roll it...

now remember as soon as you fix that joint.......somewhere else is gonna pop (obviously there's more restriction on the inlet than the outlet of an intercooler) any sort of pressure system is as good as its weakest link, if you're pulling the intercooler out to throw some beads on the inlet, might as well hit the outlet while its out.
Old 01-19-2008, 12:11 PM
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hey guys my intercooler has a flare all around i dont have a problem with my intercooler only on the rest off the pipes but thanks for your help and your time .
Old 01-19-2008, 01:33 PM
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also if you used a tig for welding the pipes, try just heating the ends and melting it just enough to make a small lip, that what we had to do on alot our mine. it really doesn't take much of a lip to get it to bite down on the hose.
Old 01-19-2008, 01:54 PM
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Any decent sheet-metal shop will be able to roll a bead with their Pexto machine.
Old 01-19-2008, 01:55 PM
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I don't know much about turbos and stuff like that but there is a simple solution to the problems you guys are having with the pipes slipping off. You can roll a bead into the end of pipe. A cheap bead roller costs ~$130 from harbor freight. With a little strengthening it can roll up to 16 gauge steel. This is what I used while I was building some floor pans and panels for my project car.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34104



Here is what it looks like after I strengthened it. Notice the piece of scrap 16 gauge steel pipe I have mounted in it.



Resulting bead rolled into the pipe. This is with a 1/2 die, the roller comes with a couple 3/8, 1/4, etc... Sorry about the crappy pic, my camera does not like taking close up pictures...





If you of you guys are close, it only takes about 5 mins to roll the bead, I would be more than happy to help you out.

Last edited by BlackGMC; 01-19-2008 at 02:04 PM.
Old 01-19-2008, 02:00 PM
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I use regular hose clamps- but mine will blow off if they are just tightened with a nut driver. To get them tight enough, I use a 1/4" drive ratchet. But be careful if you have aluminum pipes, because you can put enough pressure on it to crush the pipe.

When I have them torqued with a ratchet, the only time I had one blow was when I forgot to put the vac line back on my BOV.
Old 01-19-2008, 02:06 PM
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all mine have the ends Beaded



Last edited by 04Denali; 01-19-2008 at 03:02 PM.
Old 01-19-2008, 02:40 PM
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Beaded, not flared.


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