Well now facing a little issue taking off the heads. All 15 bolts removed but that darn head doesn't come off no matter what.

 

yeah, I guess I missed his Return line...Well Do what others have done,and just feed it back through the oil cap...Not the prettiest,but it does work...

 

I believe the turbo is too high to feed it back through the oil cap.

 

Needs a return line pump similar to "STS" "rear-mount" setups in order to puke it back in through the the oil fill cap. If the Turbo was "high enough", it would work by gravity, but then, you'd have to cut an opening through the hood for the turbo to fit. It could work, if you wanted everyone to see that you had a turbo, and not heat up the engine bay too much.

 

I drilled and tapped mine on the truck. I later had to pull it due to breaking off one of the oil cooler adapter plate bolts off in the pan. When I pulled the pan there were shavings at the bottom. I took my time selling and used a lot of grease.

 

I are a moron I meant to say to low

 

Almost done with this cam and headstud swap. Looking at the oil pan it seems like a pain to take it off. Any one ever tried their return line on the timing chain cover?

 

Tons of people use the timing cover, that's my plan.

 

Yeah, but what's the thickness of timing chain cover? Last time I had mine off I don't recall it being that thick to be able to tap it. Would likely have to weld it in. Personally, I'm just going to pull my pan off. Just get the underside crossmember out and then get the pan off. Piece of mind to do it that way. That's for 2wd.

 

My only reason to do the timing cover over the pan is that if I remove the turbo kit to sell the truck and want to remove the oil drain, a used timing cover is generally cheaper than a used oil pan, and easier to swap. I might end up doing the oil pan when I actually get around to it. I didn't think there was much thickness difference between the pan and timing cover. I was planning on JB welding it in.