What stock engine components fail the most and why?

Also is there any tricks or tips on how to make the stock engine last longer? I'm was thinking of filing the compression rings for more clearance.

Thanks.

 

all depends on boost and tuning, if yer talking drivetrain the tranny and rearend will prob be the 1st to fail

 

Pistons!!!!

Detonation will kill the top of the pistons. Most likely number 5 and 7


OR

Too high of cylinder pressure will kill the ringlands. Pistons most likely to fail, unknown. Those are 2,3,5,and 7 if I remember right.....

 

agreed with above..ne1 know why its always 5 and 7?

 

The design of the truck intake supplys more air to those two cylinders under boost.

 

I am hearing more and more sources that deal with engine building and tuning it isn't the intake manifolds causing 5 and 7 to die. It is the coolant flow either around the cylinders, through the head, or both. Folks have blown up 5 and 7 with better flowing LS1/LS6 type manifolds... including guys that have turned the manifold around as a rear breather.

IMO, Bottom line is a spot on tune with conservative timing... using boost for more power. I am running 11 psi in the winter and it drops in the summer to 9psi due to air density (ambient temps). At 9psi you can see the power numbers in my sig... respectable with only 14 degree's of max timing. I also run Torco fuel additive. I tested Torco when I had my Magnuson on the truck and it flat out works (truely effective Octane increase). Low timing and good fuel has allowed me to enjoy my daily driver turbo truck for probably 8,000 miles now. I had the Maggie on for about that amount of miles as well pushing 6.5 psi in the summer and about 7.5psi in the winter. So, I have a total of about 16,000 forced inducted miles on my truck. I have zero issues... and the way money is going lately I will not build my LS6 until the 5.3 starts complaining in which case I may wind up selling all my spare parts in the future.

BTW, the only parts I replaced, and only after I sold my Maggie, were the valve springs and pushrods. The springs were only replaced due to my experience with valve float with boost on previous build ups. The pushrods were replaced in case I hit the rev limiter under boost... in which the stockers can bend.

Oh, and I change my oil every 3k miles using Mobil1.

Bill

 

By truck has had a procharger and no a turbo for almost 20,000 miles. I put the procharger on at 68,000 miles and now im at 87,000. as long as you take care of it and not flogg it every second you get it should last along time.

 

tuning!! do not let it detonate and you dont have to do anything to beef up the motor. let it detonate and it will break a piston right away. good fuel and moderate timing.

we are going to test the limits of a stock longblock sometime this year. we are going to have pleanty of good fuel and pleanty of turbo. i am hopeing to see a 8sec pass in a 3200lb car on a STOCK 6.0 LONGBLOCK. while that goal might be lofty i can say our 3200lb fairmont is well into the 9's and compltely out of turbo on a stock longblock 5.3. my truck went into the 10's with only rodbolts and head studs done to the 6.0 long block. i am not counting cam or valve springs when i say stock longblock.

 

I've heard a few people mention the coolent thing, and some were refering to the cross tube that goes on top of the valley pan. One thing is for sure, if you hear detonation, seven's dead....

Who has a radix that has blown up? which cylinder let go?

 

What would happen if you ran a little more injector on #s 5&7?