Radix/FLT lvl5 65/everything else install... Questions
09-21-2008, 09:28 PM
#1
Radix/FLT lvl5 65/everything else install... Questions
I bought the radix kit used so I wasn't expecting it to go 100%. Here are some of the questions I have so far.
The kit cam with the 100mm metco idler pullies and I had a question on how I should mount the one that goes in the slot on the passanger side of the radix? Do I just get a bolt that fits snugly inside the spacer and a nut on the back side. There appeared to be a grove on the backside of that slot.. any reason for this?
Also when grinding off the tabs on a new set of manifold gaskets I nicked one of the rubber seals.. Not too bad but it did take off some material... is that gonna get me. I have a tube of anerobic sealer. Should a put a small dollop of sealer on that spot?
The on one of the 10 bolts that holds the whole manifold to the heads.. the one that is right under the jtube.. how the heck are you supposed to get that in. We ended up taking the j tube off, then putting one in and then putting the j-tube back on. Which also leads me to that 6th bolt on the j-tube that is tucked underneath... We ended up using a stud and locktiting it
inplace and spinning on a nut to that. I tq'd the bolts(expect for that 6th one where i jsut tightened it as hard as i could) to 17 ft lbs.. that sound right?
When you mount the evap solenoid on the front of the intercooler housing... when I tightened up the bolt(same one that held it on the stock manifold) till it bottomed out.. the evap part is still loose. It is seated in the hole there, but you can move it all around... is that normal?
I'm installing a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge. I think I want to put the FP sender where the schrader valve is on the radix fuel rail. The sender I have is 3/8 NPT.. what size is the schrader valve on the fuel rail.. is it -4AN? Also where is a good spot for the boost sender?
So far everything else is going good. Trany is out, both driveshafts are gone.. entire exhaust system, manifold to tailpipe, is gone, the clutch fan is gone... Soon I'll ba having a entire list of little parts to get rid of.
The kit cam with the 100mm metco idler pullies and I had a question on how I should mount the one that goes in the slot on the passanger side of the radix? Do I just get a bolt that fits snugly inside the spacer and a nut on the back side. There appeared to be a grove on the backside of that slot.. any reason for this?
Also when grinding off the tabs on a new set of manifold gaskets I nicked one of the rubber seals.. Not too bad but it did take off some material... is that gonna get me. I have a tube of anerobic sealer. Should a put a small dollop of sealer on that spot?
The on one of the 10 bolts that holds the whole manifold to the heads.. the one that is right under the jtube.. how the heck are you supposed to get that in. We ended up taking the j tube off, then putting one in and then putting the j-tube back on. Which also leads me to that 6th bolt on the j-tube that is tucked underneath... We ended up using a stud and locktiting it
inplace and spinning on a nut to that. I tq'd the bolts(expect for that 6th one where i jsut tightened it as hard as i could) to 17 ft lbs.. that sound right?
When you mount the evap solenoid on the front of the intercooler housing... when I tightened up the bolt(same one that held it on the stock manifold) till it bottomed out.. the evap part is still loose. It is seated in the hole there, but you can move it all around... is that normal?
I'm installing a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge. I think I want to put the FP sender where the schrader valve is on the radix fuel rail. The sender I have is 3/8 NPT.. what size is the schrader valve on the fuel rail.. is it -4AN? Also where is a good spot for the boost sender?
So far everything else is going good. Trany is out, both driveshafts are gone.. entire exhaust system, manifold to tailpipe, is gone, the clutch fan is gone... Soon I'll ba having a entire list of little parts to get rid of.
09-21-2008, 11:25 PM
#2
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the slot for the idler is supposed to have a rectangle nut that slides in the groove. I just used a swivel and 1/4" ratchet to get to the real hard to reach places. The fp sender goes right in where the schrader cvalve comes out/
09-22-2008, 09:20 AM
#3
The on one of the 10 bolts that holds the whole manifold to the heads.. the one that is right under the jtube.. how the heck are you supposed to get that in. We ended up taking the j tube off, then putting one in and then putting the j-tube back on. Which also leads me to that 6th bolt on the j-tube that is tucked underneath... We ended up using a stud and locktiting it
inplace and spinning on a nut to that. I tq'd the bolts(expect for that 6th one where i jsut tightened it as hard as i could) to 17 ft lbs.. that sound right?
inplace and spinning on a nut to that. I tq'd the bolts(expect for that 6th one where i jsut tightened it as hard as i could) to 17 ft lbs.. that sound right?
Yea, for future reference you install the bolt while the manifold is not in the truck and use a piece of convoluted tubing (wire loom about an inch or so long) to prop the bolt up so that you can mount the manifold without "catching" the threaded portion of the bolt on anything. Once you have the manifold seated, just reach in there with some long nosed pliers and remove the convoluted tubing, the bolt should drop right into place. I used some universal knuckles and was able to get the bolt tight.
On the EVAP noid, mine always felt "loose" as well.
09-22-2008, 07:59 PM
#5
Yea, for future reference you install the bolt while the manifold is not in the truck and use a piece of convoluted tubing (wire loom about an inch or so long) to prop the bolt up so that you can mount the manifold without "catching" the threaded portion of the bolt on anything. Once you have the manifold seated, just reach in there with some long nosed pliers and remove the convoluted tubing, the bolt should drop right into place. I used some universal knuckles and was able to get the bolt tight.
On the EVAP noid, mine always felt "loose" as well.
On the EVAP noid, mine always felt "loose" as well.
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