Pictures of proper set-ups and the "Monster" system for builds above 600 rwhp:

The dual valve monster with inlne checkvalves:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...stercan001.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...igFIcan002.jpg

Cutaways of some of the popular cans to show how little actual internal baffeling and how close outlets are to inlets letting substantial "oil pull through":
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...atchcan003.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ebaycan001.jpg
An earlier RX can on the right (has since been revised with even more oil separating baffeling):
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...terpics003.jpg

Front mount centri application:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...chCan023-1.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...canmount-1.jpg

A maggie intercooler after just 8k miles running without a proper oil separating catchcan:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...tamination.jpg

LS3 intake manifold on a new C6 vette w/80 miles on the odo:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...nintake001.jpg

NA application:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...nintake004.jpg

Piston tops and intake ports with deposits reducing volumteric efficiency:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ildup006-1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ildup003-1.jpg

Ask any specific questions and I will do my best to answer.

:thumbsup:

I just ordered a Mike Norris Catch can from Scoggin Dickey with Internal Baffeling! I will be venting the passenger side valve cover, and running the catch can between the driver side valve cover and intake with a check valve.

FYI...My intake has 15,000 miles on it, 3,000 being boosted without a catch can, and my intake looks like the photo above!

SC2150 Thank you for taking the time to post and shedding some light on the finer points. I see a flaw now in what I was convinced was the best way to go, trying to figure it out before designing my system. A single can would package way nicer than the dual I was planning anyway.

What merit can you give to placing the crankcase under vacuum and can it be acheived on a front mount turbo system without a pump? My dual can arrangement I had planned would work properly with manifold pressure below atmospheric, however when the check valve closes as boost builds in the manifold, the new vacuum source (in front of the compressor wheel) would draw, however, the check valve being closed on the other line would make it simply pulling vacuum on the crankcase and not actually flowing across it. If blowby outflows vacuum (likely when at a high rpm) then it's simply venting the excess through the can into the area in front of the compressor wheel.

Are you basically saying, vent your oil cap, draw from the opposite bank at all conditions and forget about your crankcase ever having even a light vacuum pulled on it?

I figured a vacuum would be beneficial for boiling off vapors but if they never settled and mixed with the oil, I guess that would probably be better anyway.
My old plan
My new plan:

Here is a picture of the Mike Norris/CCA/catchcans.com, etc. (many brands, same can):
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ebaycan001.jpg

It is the one on the left. It works very well with NA applications and we rank it one of the best of the smaller cans. To improve it I would extend the media chamber another inch down so less oil is pulled through into the outlet (1/2" from where the oil drips down).

For a turbo application you could make it work with modifing it to have 2 checkvalved outlets, but as is as soon as you come into boost you will have no crankcase evac and there will be issues. Great for NA, but not ideal for FI.

Johnmaster,

Yes, we have a flow controlling checkvalved breather that opens when vacuum is pulled but does not allow unrestricted air in. Only the amount the ECU can compensate for.

A belt driven vacuum pump is best to pull vac (14-15" max or oil starts to pull off the wrist pins and gauling can occur). We use an adjustable vac relief valve on the opposite valve cover we evac from for a good cross flow. But, on the street you will need to rebuild the pump quite often (vanes & bearings) as they wont last.

So, our system does not pull negative atmosphere but does pull controlled filtered fresh air from the pass side valve cover so it enters, travels around the rocker arms, down the pushrod valley, through the crankcase (all this time flushing the damaging combustion byproducts) , up the drivers side pushrod valley around the drivers side rockers and out the rear of the drivers side valve cover.

It is ideal to maintain vaccum, but with the increased blow-by from a FI application pressure becomes an issue while under boost.

So this is the most affordable solution that provides evac under boost or not, but without a pump to provide a steady vacuum source there is no real way to provide vacuum at all times.

This does trap all, or nearly all the oil from the intake air charge and avoids the excess crankcase pressure build up that causes oil leaks (unless you have a all to common pinched ringland or melted piston from detonation).

Note, there is a very easy way to test ANY cans effectiveness. From any auto parts stor pick up a clear glass inline fuel filter and install it between any cans outlet and the intake manifold vacuum barb. You will see most popular cans will fillit up in no time as they only catch a portion of the oil and a substantial amount still gets through.

In tests, the RX can catches a higher percentage than ANY can on the market below $200 (a Alfa Laval $2-12,000 unit will do better) with the Saiku Micchi a close second. Then the Elite & AMW are very close (if they were twice the size they would equal the RX we assume) and the Mike Norris/CCW/ is right in there with the best for NA.

NO other can is designed to provide proper evac under boost or non boost though, and there are a couple that actually RETURN the contaminated oil back to the crankcase!!!! That is a recipe for disaster. :thumbsup:

Do you use the flow controlling checkvalved breather on all the systems or just the ones with a vacuum pump?

Is this regulting the flow and no need for a pcv valve or do you use them together? If using both, breather is checkvalved and the pcv installed, what happens when excessive blowby outflows the draw, won't it build crankcase pressure?

I am very interested in this breather, please post or pm a link to purchase one. I am going to install the fuel filter too to make sure my system is working properly. Good idea :swingit:

Thank you Tracy for expert customer service, pcv valve is replaced by this system and works with the checkvalved breather he offers. Was planning on doing it myself but now I can't wait to get this monster can! :cheers:

With a belt driven system we use an adjustable vacuum relief valve (Moroso, ReherMorrison, Aerospace Components).

With the street systems it is a set flow valve integrated into the breather and it only lets filtered fresh air in, no vapors or oil out into the engine compartment. The crankcase pressure releases through the cans secondary valve when under boost so it deals with the pressure at all operating levels. :thumbsup:

Anyone have a graph routing for a suprrcharged 5.3? Do i have to have a catch can, or can i route and do without?

Any pics GREATLY appreciated

.bump.