No News on Duwem's Turbo Tractor, so let's Talk About Me.
#11
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,518
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From: Suburban Chicago
I don't remember 'zactly, but like $80 shipped. What they don't make clear to me in the "how to" article is that you need a hose that the PCV valve plugs into one end, and the other end goes over the tube that comes out of the valley cover. So a hose that is something like 3/4" ID on one end and 3/8" on the other. I made one out of self-fusing silicone tape.
#12
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,518
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
After a tank of 50/50 100 and 93 octane to see if the knock was real, and it was, I'm back to straight 93 oct. With the intake system oil free, the knock's back. Oh,well. What fun would this be if all you had to do was bolt on some parts and have it run perfectly?
#13
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,518
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
I finally changed the plugs now that I'm sure all of the oil's gone. Number 8 is the worst, bottom right. One or more must be fouled, it runs smoother and idles better with the new un's. The brown on all of the plugs must be oil ash, because it is not on the insulator below the threaded area. Also, check the tips of the center electrode, they look pretty worn for less than 1000 mi.
Does anybody know for sure, is the glazed deposit on #5 and #8 oil, or could that be from detonating?

Does anybody know for sure, is the glazed deposit on #5 and #8 oil, or could that be from detonating?

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GMCtrk
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