New Whipple 2.9L compressor, 175AX
Oct 24, 2008 | 02:05 PM
#51
They are calling for rain tomorrow here, so it may have to wait till Sunday. I will do my best to get a Video.
Had another thought on your situation today.
All this time we've been talking about rear-inlet compressors. Whipple makes a version of the 3.3L with a top inlet with a carburetor bolt pattern - the "200R". The easy bolt pattern will make it a lot easier to custom-make an inlet elbow for your application. Since you're MAF-less anyway it might be possible to run an inlet forward and mount the TB on the driver side with an open element filter. (Intercooler and pulley size can make up for the underhood heat as long as the radiator up front is large enough to do the job.) Even though the top inlet is not as efficient as the back inlet, I think that this would solve the rear clearance problem easily. The 3.3L compressor is 2" longer than the 2.3L compressor. There are a few companies making intake elbows for the aftermarket carb-flanged Gen-III/IV smallblock manifolds, there might be a low-profile one available that can be made to work. Whatever the design it does appear that it will need to be very low to fit under the hood.
All this time we've been talking about rear-inlet compressors. Whipple makes a version of the 3.3L with a top inlet with a carburetor bolt pattern - the "200R". The easy bolt pattern will make it a lot easier to custom-make an inlet elbow for your application. Since you're MAF-less anyway it might be possible to run an inlet forward and mount the TB on the driver side with an open element filter. (Intercooler and pulley size can make up for the underhood heat as long as the radiator up front is large enough to do the job.) Even though the top inlet is not as efficient as the back inlet, I think that this would solve the rear clearance problem easily. The 3.3L compressor is 2" longer than the 2.3L compressor. There are a few companies making intake elbows for the aftermarket carb-flanged Gen-III/IV smallblock manifolds, there might be a low-profile one available that can be made to work. Whatever the design it does appear that it will need to be very low to fit under the hood.
Oct 27, 2008 | 03:03 PM
#52
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 732
Likes: 0
From: VA
Really a dumb question but are you sure your boost gauge is correct.
Also i missed why you messing with a good setup. did something break? or just you power hungry? ALso are you not still on stock headers and cats?
Slap that bich with a 100 shot and be done
Also i missed why you messing with a good setup. did something break? or just you power hungry? ALso are you not still on stock headers and cats?
Slap that bich with a 100 shot and be done
Oct 27, 2008 | 07:18 PM
#53
Im reading straight from the MAP sensor via EFILive....so i am 99% sure its acurate. Nothing broke, just want more boost. Stock exhaust manifolds and cats. I did not get a chance to do the test.....had to do some electrical work on Sunday.
Oct 27, 2008 | 07:31 PM
#55
Oct 27, 2008 | 07:44 PM
#56
9 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 5
From: Colorado Springs, Co/ Central, Ca
In your pictures it looks like the master cyl is a few inches higher than the blower. Also the farther back you go the mor hieght you have. The carb sits at the rear top of the SC. Might be able to do a cowl hood with a wider cowl to give it more room. That thing would scoot with a 3.3L on there
Oct 27, 2008 | 08:17 PM
#58
Oct 27, 2008 | 08:59 PM
#59
Enjoy your boost sir!
Oct 27, 2008 | 09:46 PM
#60
HAH! I don't want to **** Mike off right now, I'm going to need some stuff from him very soon. I've got a second Vortec 454 on the engine stand I'm using for mock-up. Mike just sent me one of the alternator relocation brackets they used on the no-longer-sold Vortec 454 kits. That's going to free up the entire passenger side for the compressor and induction! At this point I'm going to be using the same 200R compressor with the carb flange and likely the un-powdercoated version of that Eldelbrock elbow. I figure the bare-cast piece will be better since a 1.5" bypass tube has to be welded on.
I've got quite a mess going on in the garage right now myself.
http://bertok.us/pics/altbracket.jpg
I've got quite a mess going on in the garage right now myself.
http://bertok.us/pics/altbracket.jpg