Here’s a link to the videos:

 

Alright everyone,

Weekly update: I had to go out of town this past week and told my friend to order up the MSD coils through his shop. Fast forward to Friday, and I had them in my hands!





I think it’s time to clean up the engine bay a lil bit lol. Here they are installed:








I put them in this morning and she runs like a champ again! No broken coil harness clips, no ripped pants. For once, it was probably the easiest install ever where nothing went wrong! I’ll keep an eye on it in the coming weeks to see if there are any changes with the way it runs.

To add, last week I ordered an Autometer A pillar triple gauge mount. Haven’t gotten around to opening the box yet. I’ll get around to ordering a wideband, boost gauge, and oil pressure gauge at some point this month.

Finally, kind of random, and while dodging some rain, I ‘restored’ my headlights. They came out okay. It was bothering me that the tops of the headlights were starting to oxidize. It also gave me an excuse to use my new Ridgid drill I bought for work haha. Let me know what you think!

Before:





After:

 

Just an update, I know, this thread kind of died off but after 6 months, no issues! Thank you everyone for your help!

 

How do you like the power delivery with the prochager. I wouldn't mind doing the same set up with my truck. And what cam do you have?

 

Hey Jon,
I like the procharger. The biggest selling point for me was that it wasn’t invasive (like a turbo setup and having to tap into the oil pan) and it was all bolt on. They also claim to keep temps under the hood lower than a twin screw or a turbo set up. Not knocking on any turbo set ups or anything (part of me wanted to go turbo and sometimes I still think about selling the procharger to slap in a 76mm and ride) but I’m content with it. 6lbs is plenty for what I want to do with it. Obviously you could run more boost with a smaller pulley or a bigger head unit but I just went with the P1SC w/ supplied pulley for the fact that it’s still stock bottom end and stock trans (not to mention with a big lift/wheels/tires to boot.)

As far as the cam goes, I bought the afm delete kit and cam from Texas Speed. Great company to deal with and answered all of my questions. I HIGHLY recommend doing the afm delete if you go forced induction or big cam n/a. The stock lifters were the reason why I needed to do this (Bent lifter on #7 cylinder.)

If I were to do it all over again, I probably would’ve done a more aggressive cam (mine is a 223/227 116lsa cam) and a converter. If I had the coin I would’ve done pistons/rods along with LT4 injectors/hpfp too (injectors/hpfp i plan to do in the future) while everything was torn apart.

Might sound a bit intimidating, I know. You COULD run just the procharger with stock top end/bottom end components. Plenty of people do it, hell I ran it for almost 3 years before doing the cam/afm delete. It’s just a gamble running it with stock top end stuff. I can recall the moment the lifter actually bent. Not even 3 months in I was cruising at like 2k rpm, it downshifted going up hill and ‘pop.’ I probably changed out 6 pushrods on 6 separate occasions on the same cylinder because of this. Hence the reason for recommending doing the cam/afm delete all at the same time as installing your ‘power-adder.’

Sorry for the long post, you may or may not have already known about the some of the woes of these newer gen LS/LT motors but it can’t hurt to reiterate in order to save you or someone else from the same headaches that it brought me. I hope this helps!

Cheers!

 

No problem I've already had the lifter on #7 stick on me then release before I could limp it home. (about 1 mile). But it left me with a nasty tick.

So I tore it down and did the TSP stage 2 5.3 cam on my 6.2. It's a 218/226 with 32% over fuel lobe.

As soon as mine is paid off I'm boosting it. I just don't want to dive into that until I'm not making a loan payment on it. I feel you on the oil pan deal. Which is sad because I just tore the whole top end off the truck and put it back together. But putting a little whole in the oil pan I'm like "Nope not me"

I was think a P1X would be more than enough to get me to the limits of the stock rods.

 

Dude sameeee. I wish I would’ve gone with a bigger head unit but I was weary of even going forced inducted anyway but oh well.

Sooo not really a new issue but it does worry me a bit, not sure if I should make a new thread on it but I’ll give it a shot to see what anyone thinks. At wot, climbing up the rpms the oil pressure spikes then at about 5k, the oil pressure drops to literally zero. Once I let off, it jumps back up to 40. No abnormal noises, no oil on the ground or coming from anywhere. If I were to guess, it’s the oil pressure sending unit considering these are notorious for failing thus giving random pressure readings.

Any other guesses or ideas of where to look before I buy it and replace it?

Also a little late but Happy New Year!!