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New forged egine boost break in

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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 09:18 AM
  #11  
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I have broken in a couple with the turbo on. Start it and let it idle for 10-15 minutes, then cool all the way down. Change the oil. Then 30 minutes of light to moderate city driving. Change the oil. Youre ready to go. You want to get the rings seated pretty early, and the best way to do that is put a little power to it.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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I was thinking about just bringing it to Granite state dyno a d having the. Break it in on the dyno and tuning it and tweaking things I may have done wrong or not efficient
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 11:42 PM
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I didn't read through all the replys........with todays hone/ring tech and roller valve train............beat on that bitch.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:13 AM
  #14  
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oil goes from pick up tube through passage in block ,into filter then oil feed on side above oil filter .oil filter should catch most metal .I agree with atomic that s how a broke mine in. I also made me a glove 20 years ago that has a bunch of magnets in it .that I put on oil filter during breakin to help oil filter catch metal
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:21 AM
  #15  
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im considering breaking my motor in NA for first few oil changes. I couldnt imagine hurting over 3000$ worth of turbos in my case....so gonna toss on a set of headers and let it idle and small driving before i add boost to mine
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:22 AM
  #16  
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I did what atomic said basically and have had 0 issues my truck was on the dyno with less than 100 miles on it. idle it, warm it up and check all fluids and for leaks, let it cool then put a few miles on and change the oil.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 10:11 PM
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I don't claim to be a expert either, but out of the numerous turbo builds I have done, be it a v8 or a honda, I always bolt it all on during assembly and break it in on the dyno..

If the motor is built right, I don't see why it would hurt it.
Never had a second thought about it..
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 12:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 98tdi
I don't claim to be a expert either, but out of the numerous turbo builds I have done, be it a v8 or a honda, I always bolt it all on during assembly and break it in on the dyno..

If the motor is built right, I don't see why it would hurt it.
Never had a second thought about it..
I agree man. All this other stuff is pretty much crap with a roller valvetrain.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #19  
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roller valvetrain doesnt mean squat when the bearings and etc have to seat, you also dont know if machine shop got every bit of metal out of the motor before assembly, so stating something is crap because of roller valvetrain is far from being on point.

in a case of a self contained power unit like a procharger yes, a magnacharger or even a whipple its fine
when you have a few thousand wrapped up into a turbo or turbos you should side on the side of caution
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:54 AM
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It's a stock bws480 92mm wheel. I'll buy 2 if I have to and just swap it over idc they arent as expensive as others but it would be unnecessary money spent if I don't need too
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