DON'T DO IT!

A while back there was a post on how to mod your IAT sensor with a quicker reacting one, you cut the old one in half cut off the old sensor tip and solder a new one on the epoxy the plastic top half back on.

Well today I noticed some slight KR and saw my IAT going from 120deg to -38deg and the ignition advance was jumping with the IAT.
when I got home I removed the IAT sensor and only half came out and the end that was epoxyed on was laying in the lower Intake of the Blower Assembely.
I called my brother for some help to hold a mirror and a light so I can HOPEFULY grab it with some mechanical fingers if that dosen't work I guess I will try and pull the upper blower and intake off (Has anybody done that before, I need some pointers) if not then I guess I will have to pull the whole blower assy.
whish me Luck, man this sucks.

 

Well I got lucky, I riged up a small hose with tape to a high power central home vaccum cleaner system and pushed the hose around in the IAT sensor hole in the lower blower manifold until it sounded like it sucked somthing up and slowly pulled it out and bingo I got it.
all is good.

 

Sounds like a hairy experience for sure glad it ended happily

 

WOW! I never would of done that mod. Glad you got it out. Now get it back to normal!!!

 

Being I have a little experience with this let me tell you how I had the fastest street gas ( damn those diesels) truck and most consistent for 3 years strait at the trucking nationals in phoenix. Everyone always complains about heat soak and inconstant times with a Magna Charger well if you have tuning software or not I will tell you how to fix it , most heat soak and IAT problems are usually in the 150-200 deg range and at 200 Degrees the maggie pulls about 5 degrees of spark based on crappy 91 octane fuel just about how much extra timing you can run on good quality 100 octane (VP103) so if you leave the tune alone and hang a second IAT sensor off in the fender your timing will never change so heat soak no longer becomes a problem and for you with software you can just zero out the IAT table. I had a 6.0 with a GT2-3, long tubes and ET drags. I ran 25 runs and every 60' was 1.57-1.59 every ET was 11.77 -11.81 and every RT was .500-.537. I was #1 qualifier 2 of the three years with a perfect .500 light. I never worried about any heat soak because I had the IAT table zeroed out, the Knock table zeroed out and 24 deg in the entire high and low timing table, thats write 24 at idle, 24at cruise, 24 at launch and 24 going across the finish line. Good fuel can cover up a lot of evils but you still need to keep a good ear for detonation and watch your AFR. Moral of the story is if you work it and get rid of some of the evils with good fuel, good consistent runs are very possible. And if you have no idea what I am talking about don't do it and never think about this on pump gas!

 

Your right on about that, I put the stock unit that came with the Radix kit back in but now I will have to do some retuneing because the stock Radix IAT sensor is much slower to respond to change in tempature.

 

Good stuff

 

Here's the link to the mod I did with the IAT sensor, and I say (DON'T DO IT)

(https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...IAT+sensor+mod)

 

Man....Crash had the best idea, for the track at least. Just hang another IAT sensor somewhere on a fender, preferably where some cool air blows!

 

If you are gonna goto the extent of putting an IAT on that helps you get better timing for race gas, wire in a resistor on a switch that will net you the same thing. This way you can hit a switch when you put the racing gas in.