I’m not going to pretend that I know everything in every situation, but it was compatible for about five years of use with the same blower on my Silverado, but suddenly became incompatible the same day I put on the smaller pulley and went WOT.

Again, that is my experience on my truck. I loved the gold blade because it was much cheaper, but I didn’t love it enough to put the bigger pulley back on! It’s been 100% trouble free now on the TBSS, just like it used to be on my Silverado, before the smaller pulley.

 

Same here, pullied down and started sucking it shut.

 

Just saying 'sucked shut' is not really what is happening lol. The throttle hardware isn't a match for the driver hardware, so it sets current controller faults in the ECM. A C5Z will do the same thing at idle with the wrong throttle on it.

 

Why did it only do it with the smaller pulley? It was the same setup only smaller pulley, it ran great for 35k miles until I went over 12psi. Then bam, limp mode. My tuner logged it and said he could see it flutter trying to stay open then it would snap shut and he said it wasn’t asking it too. But I’m not a tuner, I only know what I experienced and what I was told was the cause. Lol. I would really like to understand why it was happening when it limped out.

 

Not sure yet. It sounds like the throttle valve snapping shut is on DBW modules?
I don't see any 87mm DBC throttle bodies, anywhere (not 4 bolt for GM although there are ford and mopar). I guess I'll have to go with 92, maybe FAST. or maybe that Motion Raceworks Icon.

I've watched a bunch of LT tolman's videos. I appreciate the way he documents everything and isn't arrogant. He's done some cool stuff but he always seems disappointed when he's at the track. I think it's because he's driving big heavy trucks, so the HP doesn't net the kind of times that you'd see if those motors were dropped into a corvette or F body. I think I could possibly have the same symptoms once I get this build done. I'm totally guessing but for what I'm doing with this motor, I'm imagining I'll be in the 650-700hp ballpark. That's a ton of power but a CCLB truck is not a good platform (for racing), there's no way you can put that power to the ground without the tires breaking loose. It might actually be too much power for a daily driver. And since my truck weighs so much, even if I get caltrack's and slicks and take it to the track, the times are going to be lack-luster.
LT did just get an S10 for his next project. I'm looking forward to whatever he does with it. I just can't imagine how little real estate there would be for anything in such a small platform.

 

Assuming it wasn't a rationality diagnostic, it was probably the low level current controller diag that I mentioned. Would have to see data to know.

 

I am at 14 psi on the magnuson 2300. I have the nick Williams boosted 102mm. BUT I have a 5” intake tube. No issues. I think the larger intake tube is the key to not sucking those blades shut.

 

What's the difference in these aftermarket throttle bodies? I see a lot of guys running Nick Williams TB's. They're about 3 times the cost of a "summit" brand TB. I can see there maybe being a more significant difference on DBW if they have better actuators but DBC is pretty simple, just a piece of billet aluminum and a butterfly valve with a vacuum port, and a spring and a set screw. And a place to mount the TPS. From what I can tell. Is there something I'm missing?

 

The attention to detail in machining makes a big difference in toonability. The junk TBs can make the IAC work like an on/off switch...imagine how the idle and drive quality is affected by that.