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lq4 intake manifold and boost

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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Default lq4 intake manifold and boost

Newbe here, I am building a stock lq4/s475 turbo combo. I am still using the stock intake, plastic fuel rails (return style). I was wondering what 80lb injectors I need, and what I need to do with the intake ports (evap solenoid, brake booster line, ect), and what regulator I need for the return side of the fuel system.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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Welcome to the site.. lots of questions but here are a few tips....


The intake is fine same with all the evap and other crap, no need for a regulator. all the stock stuff will work well. now as far as injectors.
how much boost?
who is tuning?
injector driver?
Goals?

btw, searching will always yield more information than asking.....
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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Goal is 10 lbs boost (15 lbs with 4l80 later), TJ at baker engineering is tuning the truck, 550 hp, 700ish later). Injector driver? Need help with that one
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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Ask TJ what he recommends for injectors because he will be tuning it. I would say 60's should be fine and easier to tune than 80's. The injector driver allows the factory ECM to run larger Low-z injectors. typically anything bigger than 60's are low, but there are a few larger that are high but tuning is always a challenge.

The only thing about the 60's are they will be near their limit at 750, at least mine were....
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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Tj reccomended siemens deka 80s. This injector driver plugs in where? Sorry, used to only doing diesel performance stuff. The evap solenoid is kinda flimsy with only 1 bolt holding it down. Would boost pop it out? Anyways, tj is tuning it with sd, and was thinking I could screw in a iat sensor in the hole where the evap solenoid went. Is there a check valve i need to install in the brake booster line? Again thanks for the patience.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:54 PM
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I don't think you will need the driver, but it plugs in between the injectors and ECM. The evap will be fine at that level and a lot higher, if you remove the evap then you have to deal with that in the engine bay. I'd just leave it alone and mount the oat elsewhere. Depending on the year of your intake you could mount it in the egr plug. If yours does not have a egr plug then the pipe before the throttle body would work good.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:28 AM
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Thanks for the answers. This gasser stuff is new to me, so far its been fun
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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you won't need another regulator unless you want to change your base pressure. tall 80's won't need a driver box but you will still need to change your connectors and space the rail up. no need to mess with the evap valve (i tapped mine and use it as my bov referenc). if the brake booster has the little can with connectors on it you will need a check valve. don't forget your pcv arrangement.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by robbyredneck
you won't need another regulator unless you want to change your base pressure. tall 80's won't need a driver box but you will still need to change your connectors and space the rail up. no need to mess with the evap valve (i tapped mine and use it as my bov referenc). if the brake booster has the little can with connectors on it you will need a check valve. don't forget your pcv arrangement.
I will be using short 80s with the uscar connector. The brake booster hose has nothing but the plastic end that pops into the brakebooster assy. The pressure regulator works on vacuum, how will the vacuum line not blow off with boost? Thanks guys for the info
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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i don't think shorts work well with the stock rails unless you use the machined adaptors or go real ghetto. zip ties work wonders with keeping your lines on.
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