I just finished the install on my front mount KB racing kit and I'm getting a few leaks...

I drilled and tapped the end of the oil cooler bypass plate (I'm sure this is the popular way) and I believe when it was in the vice, I cut that o-ring gasket... Can you just get that O-ring or do you have to get the whole plate from GM? Its seeping around from right there....

Also on the turbo drain. I used 5/8" hose from the turbo oil outlet to the pan and used a brass king nipple 1/2"NPT fitting in the pan... I believe this is where its leaking from here... How do you recommend fixing it? I was told not to use teflon between the aluminum pan and brass fitting... Different sealer? Was I told wrong? Other than these little oil gremlins and a couple leaking V-bands everything is all good...

 

tape is ok, or paste, or RED loctite. I have used them all. Pipe thread leaks when you use no sealer or the nipple is not tight enough. This is one main reason I like RED loctite, or Green, the pipe threads do not have to be stupid tight to seal. On the oil adaptor preasure, yea you can get the oring gasket thing. Got any pics of the leaks the hose could be leaking as well.
Clean it and recheck to confirm where the leak is coming from.
OH donot over tighten that fitting in the pan, you can crack it out if you do.

 

Ill get a new O ring and see about those leaks in the morning... The hose isn't leaking, I'm sure of that.... I've got red hi-temp RTV... Would that work on the fitting? I have teflon paste as well... Whichever you recommend. I know about the possibility of breaking the pan, that may be part of the problem too. I didn't want to overtighten it.

 

How do you like that converter with the turbo?

You can pm me if you want as to not ***** up your thread.

 

On mine since there is no pressure there, I just cleaned it really well around the return fitting with brake clean and put a bead of copper rtv around it to make sure it sealed up since I taped mine with the pan in the truck and didn't quite get it tapped strait. No leaks for me.

 

1989, It feels really good!!! Its loose enough that driving around town it actually keeps me out of boost when I don't wanna be and just right when I lay in the throttle it flashes up to 42-4400, I know that sounds high but its just right really... It jumps to full boost almost instantly when I come up on the converter

Kyle, ill try that. I drilled mine in the truck too and its not perfect but I did get a good clean pass with the tap... Need to take it out and seal them up and see about another O ring for the feed side.

 

David had some good ideas with using a new plate for oil cooler bypass plate. He said that someone actually makes a replacement piece that directly bolts on so you don't have to drill and tap that fitting.

LOL, hopefully in a couple weeks I will have almost the same setup as you just with a smaller turbo. It's good to know you like that ss3600.

 

I think wjmark makes a cnc plate if you dont want to tap your stock on on the drivers side.

As far as the return, jsut get it right...

 

Yeah, I may go that route... I don't like drilling and tapping critical stuff like this... Ill do just about anything but when its gotta be right I'd rather buy something purpose made.

The return shouldn't be bad to fix... Just time consuming.

 

I used the same Oil take off point... Unfortunently for some reason the gasket ALWAYS leaks! I've replaced it twice in the past few years and yet it always drips a little bit of oil.

I think the plate it self has gotten a little warpped, although i check it on a strait edge in it looked fine. It is one of those things i've come to just ingore and live with... After all, real trucks always leak a little oil. lol