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keep shredding belts , what have you done to fix this?

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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by idahoblkss
what 8 rib system are you running ? im ordering a gates belt laser alingnment tool to be sure all pulleys are square , ill keep you posted to what i figure out.
I'm running leftcoast's IW 8 rib setup w/HD tensioner.. I have the alignment tool and they are dead on.. I'm thinking the culprit might be the idler next to procharger as the belt hangs off the front of that idler and not squarely on the entire idler. But now this alt. thing has me thinking as well. I'll take a look into it and if I come up with anything I will post it up.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:33 PM
  #22  
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well if your belt is hanging off a pulley that would be my guess why your shredding .
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #23  
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Judging from your times, I would venture to say that you're running more then 5 psi of boost ;-) That said, I can almost guarantee that your brackets are flexing. Any pulley alignment issues will further compound your problem.

You need to check your alignment (preferably with a laser alignment tool) and then brace up your bracket better. I had a Novi 2000 that I was having similar issues and I ended up having a buddy machine up a new bracket out of much thicker then stock billet aluminum. That combined with a brace fixed my issue (throwing cog belts).

It can be a real PIA, but well worth it when you get it right. Hang in there.

Also, when you're looking to brace your blower, picture a straight line that goes through the center of the crank and the center of your blower. Under boost, the blower head is going to try to pull or bend towards the crank (direction of radiator) along that imaginary line. So you will need to try and brace the head unit so that it can't pull in that direction. Sometimes that is easy, sometimes not so much. On my last project (mustang) we braced the blower head to the strut tower but I was using solid motor mounts. If you have regular mounts, you would need to brace to the engine as the engine is going to move around in the engine bay a little under power, etc. Hope that description made sense---lol.

One other thing, if you're having these problems and have run those times, you are probably getting belt slip here and there as the head unit flexes and potentially unloads the belt. The automatic tensioner is obviously going to try and compensate for that movement. How well it does is questionable. If you are losing boost through belt slippage you'll see it on your logs and will have a lot of black dust around your blower. Bottom line, more performance maybe lurking with just this simple fix ;-) Good luck!
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #24  
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I didn't have time to read the entire thread, but might be a good idea to start with this first.

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp...w=1680&bih=855
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:47 PM
  #25  
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Another solution and probably the easier one (although not cheaper) would be a brace similar to these:

Our new KMS crank to supercharger support brace... - Yellow Bullet Forums
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:20 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by slowfive0
Another solution and probably the easier one (although not cheaper) would be a brace similar to these:

Our new KMS crank to supercharger support brace... - Yellow Bullet Forums
Those braces are nice, but are only for track use and not DD since they have no oiling. There is definately an alignment or flex issue, seems that everyone has covered everything to check, so hopefully you can get it solved.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #27  
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I would want to avoid the brace just from the standpoint of cost. I ran 15 psi of boost at one point and never used a brace. That was on my daily driver which saw 15,000 miles of nice weather usage a year. I did battle belt slip issues at that level (8 rib) but never had problems chucking belts.

If the brace is needed and preload is kept in check, there should be no reason the bearings fail in it any faster then a typical idler or tensioner bearing. They are sealed and are heavy duty/high speed units.

Originally Posted by blown02408
Those braces are nice, but are only for track use and not DD since they have no oiling. There is definately an alignment or flex issue, seems that everyone has covered everything to check, so hopefully you can get it solved.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 10:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BigKID
I think this is the post he is referring to regarding the stock squeeze spacers on the alternator...
Yea, thats the post I was talking about. Good find.

With that mod and the Gates laser alignment tool I was able to keep an 8-rib belt stuck at 23 psi on a d1sc with stock truck brackets.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #29  
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Maybe I have been lucky, but I run 12-13 psi on a daily with a 6 rib set up, stock tensioner, have seen 0 belt slip, even with a belt that has been on there for over a year. But again I did fix the alt issue. I would hate to put my 8 rib kit on and get slip out of it.

I still say try to borrow a pulley that isn't fluted, before you buy a tool or brace it.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:41 PM
  #30  
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My first foray into supercharging was a 96 suburban with a whipple on a 454. The belts continually came off until I found a shop that could line up the pulleys correctly. So I see you are getting a tool to help you align the pulleys, and hopefully it is as simple as that. Took me about 5 belts and visits to different shops before the problem was solved so feel your pain. Good luck.
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