They come charcoal/black. You can use VHT paints, and have seen some good matches.

 

no screw yet, it does sag a little bit but i got it to stay up pretty good by putting the mount velcrow up higher...

 

For the fuel pressure you do not need to tap anything just get a -4an to female 1/8" npt fitting and just screw it on the test port. On the o2 bung any exhaust shop could weld it on there for you and it shoulden't cost anythign more than $20 to do.

Currently I have the autometer cobalt series gauges that you mentioned, but the 3 gauges and everything to install them cost about $1k.

 

Damn those are bright!!!! i likes!

 

Those look awesome! Can turn down the brightness though? Like splice into your dash dimmer?
The shop i go to quoted $200 for install of all 3 gauges. I just have to pick out the ones i want. But if it's that easy then i'll probably do it myself.

 

i nstalled all 6 of mine, took all day due to wanting the wiring to be as cleanly installed as possible... The worse part is that some gauges come with the wiring harness for the matching sensors and the wiring harness can NOT be lengthened or it will throw off the readings! My EGT and Air Fuel gauges where like that... Major PITA to get the wiring routed so it will reach...

 

I would say a fuel pressure guage could be elinmiated, unless your pump dies, you could check it once and assume its not going to fluctuate enough to affect you.

Air/fuel would be great to have so that you can watch your tune at all engine/weather conditions and make sure it is good. It will also tell you if your fuel pressure is going down or injectors are too small. This would be the most expensive guage if you got a nice one.

Boost is a fun factor one, but you can watch to make sure your wastegate is working and your not overboosting.

 

I have the sts turbo on a hemi truck.

I have an innovate wb a/f, autometer vac/boost and pyrometer.

You need a boost gauge to see what your boost is and to make sure its where you think it is.

You need the a/f gauge for tuning.

The pyro is to keep an eye on the exhaust temps while climbing hills or towing.

Don't want to melt a head.

 

You can't turn the brightness down on led backlit gauges with a regular rheostat dimmer supplied by the factory all or nothing. In order to dim them you need to wire up a pmw circuit to control the brightness, but I haven't done that yet since my dash lights are all the same full bright or no light so it all matches right now.



For installing them they were pretty easy, but all the wires needed to be extended to reach the sensor locations, since autometer only provides a 8-10' long harness on the electric gauges there were no changes in the wire resistance so readings aren't going to be affected. On for the wideband I'm not too sure how that will respond with an additional 18' of wire going after the turbo.

 

I like the air/fuel and boost gauge but I have a big problem with the Fuel Pressure gauge. Tapped the fuel lines for the pressure regulator and don't like the idea of high pressure fuel running into the cab to eye level and...it's LOUD!! Honestly from the inside, my truck sounds like a diesel when at idle. It's a tapping/clicking sound that's variable depending on engine RPM's. When driving it's usually muted out but I'm gonna remove it, there's probably air in the line but I still don't like fuel at my eye level. Anyone else have this problem? I didn't have this problem with my last set up on my old truck.