I couldn't say man. Sorry

 

So I searched everywhere but I couldn't find any info on turbo drain locations in the oil pan besides a slight reference to above the oil level sensor. So I think they got rid of the sensor in the GEN IV. I've got my pan off changing the gasket I was going to put it about in the same location as above the sensor on the GEN IIIs but I would hate to drill the wrong spot, I would think about anywhere above the oil level would be ok?

 

So I just went ahead and clicked execute and drilled it in the most logical spot:



I don't even think you need to run flare fittings on the return side, since supposedly people say there is no pressure on the return oil coming out of the turbo and the only way it will come out is through gravity. This kind of doesn't really make sense to me, but I guess if I need to I can get one of those flare fittings that has the 45 degree elbow built into it.

I went ahead and ordered a Dirty Dingo feed and drain kit. I already secured a turbo manifold and I think I am going to get a GT45, I'm sure it won't be an authentic Garrett, but with those 2 parts for basically free I am off to a very good start. I also ordered an intercooler, hot and cold piping, wastegate, and BOV. So far I am less than $1000. 2 things I didn't want to cheap out on was the oil feed and the BOV since I think those are critical parts.

My very very far down the road end goal will be to acquire a iron 4.8, then rebuild/prep for boost and maybe do rods and pistons in it. I want the 4.8 one for the cast iron block, the shorter stroke, and also for the downsize in displacement to make it seem more "OEM". I would think the shorter stroke of the 4.8would allow more revs and maybe help it a little more, and having a smaller 4.8 I feel is more like what GM would have done if they went turbo on a LS, but then again I don't think they would resurrect the 4.8 as they would have to make special heads or rotating assembly to get compression back similar to the LSA/LS9.

I know people say I shouldn't do it and its a bad idea, but I still am going to try to run factory cats and try to keep the factory y pipe as factory as I can. I am also going to try to keep the factory airbox and MAF setup but I think it will be tight with my turbo placement. I just want to see for myself what happens because if everyone is saying don't do it I would take it no one has tried it.

Right now I have a 7psi spring ordered.

 

I’ve burned through 2 sets of cats, one set while boosted, one set while NA at 12.5cr.

I gave up trying to keep cats. You can reduce the “fuel” smell by tuning the EOIT, which should be adjusted anytime you swap cams.

When you swap cams and get closer to 0 overlap or even go above it, this increases the time both intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. This is where the “fuel” smell comes from. This is whats called overlap.

 

your do you, honey booboo

since apparently nobody's actually tried it for real, the experience i wrote about my car must've apparently been pure conjecture. have fun, don't get bit by the boost bug, and keep your seals tight (so to speak); that's how i'd hypothetically postulate you keep those stock cats alive.

terrible orator, but a decent explanation... 'twas the 1st hit searching 'clogged catalytic converter turbo'

ps - i'm having a hard time visualizing your concept here: are you wanting to run the driver's manifold through the cat, then back up to join the passenger manifold at an unspecified point before it connects to a turbo (which may or may not somehow be attached between the manifold outlet & cat), then from the turbine outlet - down to cat #3 via attaching where you cut the stock driver's side of the y-pipe off? that sounds like a packaging nightmare, so i must have that part wrong.

 

Thanks for the advice, and sorry I don't mean to sound like I know everything and ignoring what you have tried, but I want to see how this works and I was more planning on going with aftermarket "hi flow" cats. I feel the reason why most people buy a whole stainless steel downpipe and crossover is because they don't want cats and it seems like I can at least save some by using as much as the stock exhaust as possible.

So I want to leave the drivers side manifold and cat completely alone, then cut the factory exhaust at the crossover near the y pipe, then run my own tubing back up to the passenger side manifold, which I will replace with a turbo manifold on the passenger side. I would then have to make my own pipe from the turbine output to the stock passenger side cat. I will have to move the passenger side cat from its stock location since I don't think it will have enough room.

 

I think I put the turbo drain a little too high on the oil pan. I still think I can hook the line to it, but I won't be able to put a 45 degree angle tube on it I don't think since its too close to the starter. I am still waiting for it in the mail so I couldn't test fit it on there while everything was out of the way.

 

okay that's making more sense

now i ain't no tuner (so take this with a grain of salt), but something seems weird about Bank 1 having a pre-turbo cat while Bank 2 don't... then it all goes through two more cats. i get that the downstream O2s only measure cat effectiveness & don't affect fuel trims, but it might be interesting accounting for the slight flow differences between the banks.

then again, it might not make a lick of difference & i'm just flappin' my gums because i'm still learning turbo stuff & the only setups i've looked at building were rear-mount to feed my car's blower (which didn't happen) and my cummins (which only has 1 bank to worry about & the turbos feed each other).

 

I was wondering how the "imbalance" would effect things as well. I have been looking all over trying to find a SAE paper on the effects of catalyst placement in turbocharged engines, but most stuff is in relation to diesel engines. There were some studies about pre catalysts before the turbine for tighter emissions control, but from skimming through them I didn't really see much but it never mentioned any serious issues with it.

 

Get rid of one cat and only do two. You will not suffer from the unburnt fuel smell.