Forced Induction and Towing
#21
Well like i tell the woman who cleans my house and cooks my dinner (the wife
)....."would you rather i was sitting at the bar or working on my truck?"
Hey coon, i was checking out your video's in your sig (Very cool). The one where you do your 0-60 run......it would be cool if you could video edit a kid kicking a ball into the street and chasing it, right about the time your hitting 75.
)....."would you rather i was sitting at the bar or working on my truck?"Hey coon, i was checking out your video's in your sig (Very cool). The one where you do your 0-60 run......it would be cool if you could video edit a kid kicking a ball into the street and chasing it, right about the time your hitting 75.
Last edited by Linda; Feb 23, 2006 at 03:28 PM.
#22
Originally Posted by Linda
Hey coon, i was checking out your video's in your sig (Very cool). The one where you do your 0-60 run......it would be cool if you could video edit a kid kicking a ball into the street and chasing it, right about the time your hitting 75.
#23
Originally Posted by Linda
alrighty, i got in touch with Jeff over at Whipple and told me that the setup I have is the way they come with the deleted electronics. It senses vacuum at the intake to allow the spring to open/close depending on the state of pressure measured. He tells me it is not advised to try and adjust the linkage (even though it may look inviting). He recommends that i purchase the pully 2 sizes smaller to achieve boost sooner than I am. He said running 93/94 octane (which i do) and living at virtually sea level, i should not have any problems jumping to 7lbs of boost even without the intercooler. He said under most conditions you will only actually be into 7lbs of boost 5% of the time anyhow. So it looks like I had the install correct..
...and Coon was right, that if i want boost sooner to grab the smaller pulley.
Here's a link that might help you better understand what I'm saying.
Worst that can happen is you have to put it back the way it was.
Rob
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