I have not driven it enough to make any real decisions yet, but is it not advisable to make any adjustment to the bypass valve? There is a set screw/stop screw on the valve linkage, i wonder if its worth adjusting it to try and have the valve close off a little earlier?

 

My setup is non-adjustable - if it was adjustable, I would definately have tinkered with it. Might be worth the time and trouble if it got you into boost at lower throttle.

 

Same exact situation except mine is a radix. The difference is remarkable.

 

Linda (Jimmie?),

On your setup the bypass valve is a separate unit, rather than being integrated with the blower as the Magnuson units are, correct? I'm just wondering if you may either have it adjusted incorrectly, or are taking vacuum from the wrong place? My radix basically compresses the manifold pressure vs. throttle position scale, so that instead of going a linear x" of vacuum to atmospheric as I depress the throttle, it now goes x" vacuum to 10+ psi.

Also I do feel an increase in power outside of boost. Part of it is the scale compression mentioned above. Part may be the hotter Magnuson tune. With all this said, though, it might be best to wait until your custom tune is done before changing anything.

 

I am definately gonna wait till my tune is done before making any adjustments, i have not made any at all yet. You can see in this photo, that it is adjustable by turning the stop screw.............

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...4/IMG_1187.jpg

I am making the intercept for my boost gauge at the FPR. As far as taking on vacuum from the wrong place..... there are no vacuum lines in the sytem at all, other than the one going from the bypass actuator to the back of the compressor that you see in that picture. Only thing i can guess is its using the intake air as a way of gauging vacuum or throttle position....is that possible? Man, you got me thinking now, how does it know not to give boost when i am sitting in park and i rev it up, but it does when i am driving? There are no electronics connected to this system what so ever, and the only vacuum lines involved are for my boost gauge at the FPR and the small 1/4" hose going from the actuator to theback of the compressor. Should there be another vacuum line going from the actuator to a different vacuum sorce? Here is a shot of it off the truck......

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...ss_valve_1.jpg

Not to mention there was absolutely nothing in the entire instruction set refering to connecting to a vacuum source.....weird. And yeah, its Jimmie...

 

Yep, your setup is WAAYYY different than mine, at least by appearances alone. Get it tuned and make that a step during the process..."what happens when I adjust this thingy??".

 

Are you making a vacuum intercept someplace? Do you have more than one input on your actuator? You guys have got me scratching my head now on how its reading vacuum and knowing when to go into boost. This is gonna bother me all day now, Im going to have to leave work early to go home and look at this. Damn you guys...

 

Maybe i need to put a Tee in that line going from the actuator to the compressor and run it to a vacuum sorce, but it did not say anything about doing that in the instructions. Its going into boost it just seems like i need to give it a lot of throttle to do so. Its gotta be using the intake through the throttle body to gauge when to go into boost, its not hooked to anything else to get a reading from. This is killling me.

 

alrighty, i got in touch with Jeff over at Whipple and told me that the setup I have is the way they come with the deleted electronics. It senses vacuum at the intake to allow the spring to open/close depending on the state of pressure measured. He tells me it is not advised to try and adjust the linkage (even though it may look inviting). He recommends that i purchase the pully 2 sizes smaller to achieve boost sooner than I am. He said running 93/94 octane (which i do) and living at virtually sea level, i should not have any problems jumping to 7lbs of boost even without the intercooler. He said under most conditions you will only actually be into 7lbs of boost 5% of the time anyhow. So it looks like I had the install correct.....and Coon was right, that if i want boost sooner to grab the smaller pulley.

 

LMAO. Boost is the drug of choice around here. Absolutely everyone starts off by saying I just want a little bit more power. Then it's how do those pulleys work, how does an intercooler work, what would a turbo do? You lasted about 1 month, now you're already jonesing for more.