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Foiled by blowing oil again.

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Old 10-24-2006, 07:16 PM
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Thumbs down Foiled by blowing oil again.

I was all set to go to the track tonight, weather is clear and 35 degrees!!
It would have been awesome.
I put my two new Jegs oil seperators on this afternoon and removed my homemade catch cans. I thought this would solve all my oil issues once and for all....nope.
I added a quart of oil before leaving because I was slightly low. I had my oil fill cap attached directly to the valve cover and safety wired down tight.

Thinking I would not have to worry about and crank pressure building up enough to push my cap out anymore I did not re-wrie the cap down.

I did a run on a side street at 11psi to see how she responed to the changes.
All I can say is...11psi and 35 degree temps make for some really fun fishtailing!!
Got to the gas station to put in a few gallons before driving down to the track, opened the hood to do a double check of all my lines and everything else to find oil all over the area around the fill cap.
Do I need a 1" freaking vent line to control crank pressure enough to keep my fill cap from pushing up?
I must have some seriously shity ring seals or something, this crap is making me second guess the turbo thing all over again.
What really pisses me off is I took off my bed cover, removed the tailgate, spare tire, jack, floor mats, all for nothing.
Maybe tomorrow night.

Last edited by TG02Z71; 10-25-2006 at 05:39 AM.
Old 10-24-2006, 07:20 PM
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dude i hope you get all the figured out asap!!

Does it only do that at 11psi? or what?
Old 10-24-2006, 09:04 PM
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I have really only had problems since going above the wastegate pressure of 5-6 psi.
I keep thinking I hurt the engine or something but it idles perfectly, still gets ok mileage, is fast when you hammer it. I just don't get it.

Can I be getting this much crank case pressure that I cannot bleed it off with the two stock valve cover holes??

I don't even have a PCV valve, the orifice type that was in there has been opened up to about 3/8" just to let the presure out.

I have the malifold nipple capped where the PCV used to vent to.

The passenger side valve cover vents to its own oil seperator as does the drivers side valve cover.

After cleaning up the oil mess I saw that the drivers side oil seperator had a good amount of sludge in it, oil mixed with condensation, but the passenger side oil seperator only had a slight amount.

What is the freaking deal with this BS?
Is this 3/8" ID hose too small to vent my crankcase's pressure??

Do I have engine problems?
Maybe need to do a leak down test.

I feel like just putting the system back to stock as far as the vents and PCV go. The whole reason I did this was to keep oil from getting into the intake manifold.
Old 10-25-2006, 12:03 AM
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I was goin to suggest a leak down test, but i see you are planning on that?
Old 10-25-2006, 02:07 AM
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man i have the same damm problem and i dont wtf it is am running 6psi right now and if i get on it on the street (1st & 2nd gear) its stays fine but when im on the freeway and about 3rd gear high 2nd it blows it off and oil is everywhere im also very pissed of about this sh*t. so right now i have like 3-4 zip ties mickey moused on thier to hold it down. i dont know i feel ur pain what should we do?
Old 10-25-2006, 05:49 AM
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I'm planning on doing a larger diameter hoses to some type of container, then out of that into another hose to pull vapor back to the engine to keep the fumes down. I may even run the vapor hose line all the way back to the turbo outlet. Does anyone think that the hoses need to go to their own containers so they don't influence the other under boost? I ask this because it seems that at least on my engine, it blows more boost out of the drivers side valve cover.
The problem in a boosted engine is the lack of vacumn during acceleration to pull vapors even though this is the time when the most oil puking occurs.
It's a visious cycle.

On the stock system, the nipple on the TB is used to pull vapors from the passenger side valve cover while the drivers side valve cover is vented to the nipple on the intake manifold.
Is this just convinience or is there an actual reason for it?

How are the LS1 engines vented, along with the LS2, and even the LS7??
I know the system is most likely the same or similar just for the fact of being NA engines, boost was not taken into consideration.

All this talk about nipples, for all the wrong reasons is making me crazy.
Old 10-25-2006, 05:52 AM
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Mine only vents after repeated 8 to 9psi runs.
Old 10-25-2006, 06:39 AM
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Nobody ever told me you needed a checkbaell type pcv on the drivers side valve cover instead of a fixed orifice and when I went above 6pounds (12) I blew pistons #5 and 7. This happened a couple of day's ago and not to happy about it. I emailed sts and ask them about it and no reply??? I found out that from 2003 and newer these trucks changed from a pcv valve to a fixed orifice and that doesn't work with a turbo, you have to have some kind of checkball to prevent the turbo from pressurizing the crankcase???
Old 10-25-2006, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by hotrod04
Nobody ever told me you needed a checkbaell type pcv on the drivers side valve cover instead of a fixed orifice and when I went above 6pounds (12) I blew pistons #5 and 7. This happened a couple of day's ago and not to happy about it. I emailed sts and ask them about it and no reply??? I found out that from 2003 and newer these trucks changed from a pcv valve to a fixed orifice and that doesn't work with a turbo, you have to have some kind of checkball to prevent the turbo from pressurizing the crankcase???
I have an "02" and it had a fixed orifice type in it from the factory. I run no pcv now, just a opened up to 3/8" orifice type.
Sorry to hear about your engine destruction.
Old 10-25-2006, 09:03 AM
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Even with the check valve type PCV valve you'll still pressurize the crankcase. I had one on my truck and it still managed to pressurize. It will get past the rings and lets face it, Gen 3/4 V8's don't have much of a crankcase to begin with. Also these engines were designed with little to no internal crankcase breathing, except for the LS6 block band-aid.

Anyway, my #7 cylinder doesn't seal for ****, for obvious reasons, so I I find it very important to keep oil under control. Any type of air/oil separator offers a restriction in the line. I think this restriction is enough for the oil/pressurized air to find a path of less resistance. Hence, dipsticks, valve cover gaskets, and filler necks all blowing out.

I run a Mr. Gasket crankcase evac setup, with one breather on the drivers valve cover where the pcv used to go. I then run the line after the turbo into the check valve, then it goes into the exhaust. I tee the pasenger side breather into the line as well. I don't have a muffler or a tailpipe, so there's little to no back pressure in my exhaust. So if you have a muffler then this setup probably wont work. A better route to go and I think I'm going to switch to it is run the line to the inlet side of the turbo and use another oil/air separator. That way the crankcase will be under vacuum. That's what we're all after anyway.


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