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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DrX


Except that those lines are connected on the front of the surge tank near the top, not on top as drawn, and the pump, check valves and filter are actually mounted next to the tank, not on it as originally planned(too much hardware)
Nice. So to me, it looks like the surge tank will stay full all the time. Then when you get into boost, the hobs switch turns on the big pump, and it tries to empty the surge tank.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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That is one nice looking engine bay. I like it when the new set up almost looks stock. Beatiful work and attention to detail.. Wish you were close so I could it in person.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #43  
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Real nice twins sweet looking engine bay nice work also good luck on ur 4 digit hp
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #44  
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That is incredible fab work!

Hope it surpasses your expectations.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TrickPerformanceProducts
That is one nice looking engine bay. I like it when the new set up almost looks stock. Beatiful work and attention to detail.. Wish you were close so I could it in person.
I think you've already seen much of it in person. Thanks for the nice work on the blower setup, tanks, fans, etc! Wish you could take a ride in it. Pretty crazy how this thing jumps up and takes off like it weighs 2000 lb rather than 6XXX lb.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Nice. So to me, it looks like the surge tank will stay full all the time. Then when you get into boost, the hobs switch turns on the big pump, and it tries to empty the surge tank.
Exactly. The engine cruises on the OE pump/tank with the FPR at the rails effectively closed. The rear FPR maintains a constant system fuel pressure with any excess fuel dumping into the surge tank to keep it filled. When the big pump kicks in under boost the front FPR takes over at a higher base pressure and it is boost-referenced. Any excess fuel from the rails then also dumps into the surge tank. Overflow from the surge goes back to the main tank. The surge tank capacity is a 2-3 gallons. It could have been smaller, but I like knowing that I would have a lot left in it after a 1/4 run even if there was no return from the rails.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DrX
...got the blowers tucked in so no one will suspect a thing...







...Hood was done by a local guy - DMK Customs. Was introduced to him at a local car show.
QUOTE 00chevsilv: That looks awesome Grant. I've talked to a couple guys with hotrods who DMK did work on and apparently his work is unreal.

DrX, why did DMK use custom steel instead of fiberglass? Ease of working w/. it or something else like proximity to heat? Or not havin to make a mold? Looks nice esp. the front view. Heck, I even like the other 2 pics I put up. So did he make it using an all new hood or ?

Can I see a in cab view of the back of your cowl hood? It looks like u have a few gauges mounted in a few of the holes on driver's side (silver rings)?
Awesome fab & work on your whole build is beyond what I could even fathom.

I didn't know Trick did the nice work on the blower setup, tanks, fans, etc! :

Originally Posted by DrX


Except that those lines are connected on the front of the surge tank near the top, not on top as drawn, and the pump, check valves and filter are actually mounted next to the tank, not on it as originally planned(too much hardware)
Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
...it looks like the surge tank will stay full all the time. Then when you get into boost, the Hobbs switch turns on the big pump, & tries to empty the surge tank.
Originally Posted by DrX
Exactly. The engine cruises on the OE pump/tank with the FPR at the rails effectively closed. The rear FPR maintains a constant system fuel pressure with any excess fuel dumping into the surge tank to keep it filled. When the big pump kicks in under boost the front FPR takes over at a higher base pressure and it is boost-referenced. Any excess fuel from the rails then also dumps into the surge tank. Overflow from the surge goes back to the main tank. The surge tank capacity is a 2-3 gallons. It could have been smaller, but I like knowing that I would have a lot left in it after a 1/4 run even if there was no return from the rails.
I've never had a need to get this crazy on a fuel system, so please explain:
What is function of surge tank? To hold / run higher octane for all out 1/4 Mile pass or what?

What are 2 check valves for?

Last edited by fastnblu; Jun 24, 2010 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
I've never had a need to get this crazy on a fuel system, so please explain:
What is function of surge tank? To hold / run higher octane for all out 1/4 Mile pass or what?

What are 2 check valves for?
I'll answer for the Doc, he is in surgery.

The pump he is using requires being gravity fed, and it requires that garden hose you see in the pics to feed it. To feed it with the in-tank pump won't work.

The other option would be to build a new stock-replacement tank with a sump to feed the big pump. It is easier to have a surge tank, and it is easier to guarantee that the pump feed never sucks air with a surge tank.

You could look at a surge tank as a remote sump. And it is kept full by the return from the stock, in stock tank, pump.

The big pump only runs during boost to save wear on it, and so the Doctor can be heard at the drive up window.

The stock pump runs always, and the big pump runs sometimes, and they are teed together, both feeding the fuel rails.

The checks keep the stock pump from pumping backwards through the big pump when it is not running, and without its own check, the big pump would pump backwards through the in-tank, even though the in-tank is running.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by MikeGyver
I'll answer for the Doc, he is in surgery.

The pump he is using requires being gravity fed, and it requires that garden hose you see in the pics to feed it. To feed it with the in-tank pump won't work.

The other option would be to build a new stock-replacement tank with a sump to feed the big pump. It is easier to have a surge tank, and it is easier to guarantee that the pump feed never sucks air with a surge tank.

You could look at a surge tank as a remote sump. And it is kept full by the return from the stock, in stock tank, pump.

The big pump only runs during boost to save wear on it, and so the Doctor can be heard at the drive up window.

The stock pump runs always, and the big pump runs sometimes, and they are teed together, both feeding the fuel rails.

The checks keep the stock pump from pumping backwards through the big pump when it is not running, and without its own check, the big pump would pump backwards through the in-tank, even though the in-tank is running.
Good explanation, but I still don't think they'll hear me at the drive up window. I'm going to get nailed under the new 95 decibel law here with these Magnaflows.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
QUOTE 00chevsilv: That looks awesome Grant. I've talked to a couple guys with hotrods who DMK did work on and apparently his work is unreal.

DrX, why did DMK use custom steel instead of fiberglass? Ease of working w/. it or something else like proximity to heat? Or not havin to make a mold? Looks nice esp. the front view. Heck, I even like the other 2 pics I put up. So did he make it using an all new hood or ?

Can I see a in cab view of the back of your cowl hood? It looks like u have a few gauges mounted in a few of the holes on driver's side (silver rings)?
Awesome fab & work on your whole build is beyond what I could even fathom.

I didn't know Trick did the nice work on the blower setup, tanks, fans, etc! :
We started with my stock hood that had a huge hole cut in it. I wanted a steel scoop made to restore the structural rigidity of the hood.

No gauges in the cowl, but I can see the potential.

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