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Duramax intercooler install has begun

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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 06:42 PM
  #71  
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I was having the same thought about bypassing the I/C and it made me think of "turbo lag". I was worried about lag with the size of my intercooler, I have none. My theory is that with the constant flow of air through the I/C, the inertia of it makes for an invisible amount of lag. Now if you bypass the I/C, you'll have to get all of the air in the pipes and the I/C moving again when transitioning from vacuum to boost, increasing the possibility of lag. This is my theory, my theory is this.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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Linda, You have to run metal 90s or 45s. I had the same problem. Use a hump hose to connect.

Good Luck,
Attached Thumbnails Duramax intercooler install has begun-img_0619_1.jpg  
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:27 PM
  #73  
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I dont mean to bypass the intercooler. My reasoning is this, currently when in bypass the blower is recycling hot air because the air that is being recirculated has not reached the intercooler rather it has just left the compressor. Doing this would also decrease Iat's when in vaccum because the bypass air would be cooled down by the intercooler rather then just being recycled through the compressor numerous times. Even notice on a twin screw how when running 15-18" vaccum the IATs do not drop much however when running like 5-12" of vaccum they will drop some.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:29 PM
  #74  
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They drop becuase the engine airfow has increased and the blower bypass is not recycling the air as many times and heating it up. At least these are my thoughts. Not neccessary right but.....
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 03sierraslt
I will only have one 90 that is silicone and with both pipes in the 90 it CANNOT collapse, now mind you the 90 that I have is different from others in its design.

Well, i thought the same thing......and i was very wrong. I had my tubes pushed all the way in until it was showing a buldge on the outside. I could not have got them into the 90 any further. It still sucked them in, bad. I wish i would have gotten a picture of it to show you. I am willing to bet that ANY 90* silicone coupling is going to collapse at 22" of vacuum. I am going to have to agree with JamesBond2509, I am going to have to use metal 90's...no other way around it, period. I am going to pick up some "cast" aluminum elbows. They have a very tight radius and i think i can make them work in place of the silicone ones. Looks like it will be a few more days until she is beatin the pavement again..... . Sure sounded good to hear her fire up though. The wait continues.......
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:13 PM
  #76  
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Lookin' good tho. Hang in there, it will surely be worth it.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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Thats wierd, I was talking to Billy at TRT and he said he has never really found this to be a problem. My setup would actually have to tear the elbow apart to collapse, it is pysically impossible due to the size and the way it is setup with the piping. I think. I put the piping in it exaclty the way it would be run and it doesnt allow enough movement to actually collapse.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:54 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by 03sierraslt
Thats wierd, I was talking to Billy at TRT and he said he has never really found this to be a problem. My setup would actually have to tear the elbow apart to collapse, it is pysically impossible due to the size and the way it is setup with the piping. I think. I put the piping in it exaclty the way it would be run and it doesnt allow enough movement to actually collapse.
You may have a different situation than me, but the only way the elbow would not be able to collapse, is if the metal went completely through it. Otherwise, you would still be able to push in on the "elbow" part. Mine sucked in like i had a vacuum pump hooked to it. I actually pushed in on mine before starting it to see what it would be like if it did suck in some. When i pushed on it, i said to myself that even if it went in like this, it should still be okay. It went in twice as far when i started the engine as it did when i just pushed in on it. I hope yours does better than mine. In the long run, i will probably be better off with the aluminum elbows anyhow. Live and learn i guess.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 05:25 AM
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okay, got some sleep and have cooled down a little. Found a place that sells "cast" aluminum 90's for $22 each, thats the cheapest i could find. Unfortunately, i can only use the tight 90's or it would be much easier to fix using the mandrel bent ones. Anyway, i am going to see if the place down here sells them today before i order them online (save some time). Almost forgot to mention yesterday because i was fuming....the bolt pattern on the Dmax fan is different than the 8.1L fan....so that settles that delema. I will have top pick up the Dmax clutch if i want to use the Dmax fan. I will keep you posted on the cast 90's and how they work out.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 05:47 AM
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What about just sticking a wire coil through the elbows like they do in some tight radiator bends? At least it would keep it from collapsing on you.
Good enough for some testing maybe, I don't know where you would get it that size though. Maybe a Semi-Truck supply house.
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