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Do "X" links go bad?

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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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With the LS3 style that wire has to be hooked back up.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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I don't see any wires cut or unhooked. My LS3 was one of the first ones out. I heard that the early LS3 used the same t'body as the LS2. Heard that on the internet.....it has to be true
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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Is this the X-Link 1.0 with the long pink wire connected to the AC 5V reference? If so, check that connection.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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[QUOTE=DrX;5049807]Is this the X-Link 1.0 with the long pink wire connected to the AC 5V reference? If so, check that connection.

The only pink wire I see comes out of one side of the X box and goes back in on the same side. On the other side of the box the pink wire does the same thing. I know that's a horrible description, but that's what it does. All the wires coming out of the box go to a coupler except the pink one. It comes out of the X box, makes a loop, and goes back in. Same thing on the other side.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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That is a version 2. Ideally the pink loops should be cut for silver blade TBs, looped for gold blade. It is more critical for the gold blades though.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DrX
That is a version 2. Ideally the pink loops should be cut for silver blade TBs, looped for gold blade. It is more critical for the gold blades though.
It's been working great like this for quite a while before these recent troubles.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
Thanks for chiming in Doc. We installed a three bolt t'body from a 4.8L and it worked fine....no codes. Hooked up the original LS2 t'body (silver blade) with X link and it threw 0120, 0220, 1516, and 2135. The X box doesn't have any writing on it. Square box with one mounting stud on the bottom and four small screws holding the back on. My son checked ohms through the X link wires and all show something except the purple wire.
Doesn't sound like the X-Link with all those codes/both TPS circuits affected. As already mentioned, check for an internal intermittent connection in the brown and yellow wires of the factory harness within a few inches of the 8 pin connector. Also check that there is continuous 5V on the grey wire at that connector with the X-Link disconnected from it(key on). Check continuity on the 2 black wires between that connector and the connector at the TAC module. Also check the engine harness ground connection to the passenger side rear top of the block.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
It's been working great like this for quite a while before these recent troubles.
It would just open a little further if the loops were cut.
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 02:31 PM
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Found the problem. There must have been a wire inside the box shorted to the box. We covered the box in electrical tape and zipped it to a hose and it runs fine. I'd given up. My son (good mechanic) kept after it until he solved it. Thanks for the help DrX and the rest of you guys too!

We were able to isolate to the box by taking my t'body and X link to a friend's '05 half ton and installing it. As soon as we turned the key on in his truck, it threw the same codes. That isolated it to the X link. We had already eliminated the t'body to swaping my vette's t'body in with no change. Took a while, but we got it.
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 03:34 PM
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Good to hear you got it figured out.
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