considering a turbo setup
Oct 19, 2009 | 09:41 PM
#11
rear mount is very very simple. Ill be doin one on my S10 
id also suggest a W/A intercooler, heck of alot easier to route pipe to.
Saturday ill have some free time so off come the Long bars for ya, ill give you new bolts also.
You get the truetrac in? Im goin to cleveland Sunday if you would want to meet sometime.
id also suggest a W/A intercooler, heck of alot easier to route pipe to.
Saturday ill have some free time so off come the Long bars for ya, ill give you new bolts also.
You get the truetrac in? Im goin to cleveland Sunday if you would want to meet sometime.
Oct 19, 2009 | 09:51 PM
#12
Turbo systems are pretty tough to sort out when you start with what you think is the right turbo. I haven't heard of a lot of success with turbo's pulled off a diesel. Do a search for "Diesel Turbo" in Forced Induction and some posts should come up. If you consider that if you do a front mount DIY, at the very least you are going to drop:
Cold Tubing $100
Silicone Connectors $100
Stainless Steel tubing for hot side and DP (using stock manifolds) $250
Flanges $50
Blow Off Valve $150
Oil feed/drain lines and fittings $100
FMIC $150
Real Tuning (in person, not mail-order) ($0 if you have EFI Live) $500
External Wastegate (if the turbo doesn't have an internal wastegate) $250
Longer Plug wires $50
Meth Kit (optional but if you really want to run a decent amount of boost) $350
Fuel Pump $125
These are all "POOMA (pulled out of my *ss) ebay, used, best deal on the planet kind of overly opptimistic prices that we all use to fool ourselves into thinking it won't cost that much" kind of pricing. This is assuming you can weld and fabricate at a decent level. You might be able to trim back a ferw of these costs but they still *** up fast. There is so much "other" stuff that goes with a Turbo build that the turbo (unless you step up into the Ball-Bearing, Water cooled variety) is not the majority of the build price.
If you consider that you'll drop $2k+ on the build without the Turbo, a properly spec'd Turbo from a reputible source (Trick, KB, Synergy, etc) may only be 15-25% of your total build cost and will make or break how much you like your biuld. I've been in trucks/cars that nothing happens for 3 seconds on then it feels like you hit the N2O for 2 seconds and then runs out of steam and other's that it feels like a 600" OEM big block that pulls to the moon. It's all in the homework before the build. It's such a PITA to put together a no-maintenance Turbo system that your better off building it right than patch working a weak kit that you won't be happy with. The old adage "Don't trip over a $50 to pick up a $5" couldn't be more true.
Rick
Cold Tubing $100
Silicone Connectors $100
Stainless Steel tubing for hot side and DP (using stock manifolds) $250
Flanges $50
Blow Off Valve $150
Oil feed/drain lines and fittings $100
FMIC $150
Real Tuning (in person, not mail-order) ($0 if you have EFI Live) $500
External Wastegate (if the turbo doesn't have an internal wastegate) $250
Longer Plug wires $50
Meth Kit (optional but if you really want to run a decent amount of boost) $350
Fuel Pump $125
These are all "POOMA (pulled out of my *ss) ebay, used, best deal on the planet kind of overly opptimistic prices that we all use to fool ourselves into thinking it won't cost that much" kind of pricing. This is assuming you can weld and fabricate at a decent level. You might be able to trim back a ferw of these costs but they still *** up fast. There is so much "other" stuff that goes with a Turbo build that the turbo (unless you step up into the Ball-Bearing, Water cooled variety) is not the majority of the build price.
If you consider that you'll drop $2k+ on the build without the Turbo, a properly spec'd Turbo from a reputible source (Trick, KB, Synergy, etc) may only be 15-25% of your total build cost and will make or break how much you like your biuld. I've been in trucks/cars that nothing happens for 3 seconds on then it feels like you hit the N2O for 2 seconds and then runs out of steam and other's that it feels like a 600" OEM big block that pulls to the moon. It's all in the homework before the build. It's such a PITA to put together a no-maintenance Turbo system that your better off building it right than patch working a weak kit that you won't be happy with. The old adage "Don't trip over a $50 to pick up a $5" couldn't be more true.
Rick
Last edited by Rick_Vor; Oct 19, 2009 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Spilled my Jack 'n' Coke during the first posting...
Oct 19, 2009 | 09:55 PM
#14
If you consider that you'll drop $2k+ on the build without the Turbo, a properly spec'd Turbo from a reputible source (Trick, KB, Synergy, etc) may only be 15-25% of your total build cost and will make or break how much you like your biuld. I've been in trucks/cars that nothing happens for 3 seconds on then it feels like you hit the N2O for 2 seconds and then runs out of steam and other's that it feels like a 600" OEM big block that pulls to the moon.
