really? I have heard it drops temps 20*, but only if you are starting at like 250*. I am starting much lower than that. I will give it a shot though and see what happens.

 

Ive used Water Wetter mixed with Distilled water and the same day in the same heat i flushed the system and filled it with 100% Distilled water and nothing changed..

IATs where still bout 10-12* above Ambient..

 

6.59A x 120 volts = 790watts

790watts / 12volts = 65.9A

Or you could just bump the decimal point one place i guess....LOL. So yeah, it would pull some power i suppose.

 

Basically what I am looking for is a small plastic reservior that will cool 100* water down to about 50* with a 2 gallon capacity, and consume no power. Is that asking to much?

 

1/8hp 650 bucks. Yikes. These things are expensive.




http://cgi.ebay.com/Pacific-Coast-Im...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Heater hose is the cheapest to try, and the track no biggy just put a simple catch can for the drip.

 

I've used the A/C setup before described by Trick, and it really works quite well. In the summer months (April to Oct ) I run my A/C anyway, so it's no big deal. It chills the water quick and keeps it that way. It does take a little longer for my truck to cool off in the cab, and it doesn't blow as hard since it's set to defrost. Small price to pay for below ambient IAT's.

I had a unit that was self contained that was far more powerful that those little BS refrigerators everyone is talking about. It was awesome and far better than using the vehicle's A/C. The downside was weight (~20lbs without water/reservoir), the size and the install isn't something anybody can just do. I switched back to the A/C setup for now since its summer, but I have another unit under my desk right now that'll be more user friendly and hopefully more compact. I have a line on a 12VDC version too.

I got my IC, pump, lines and BOV ripped off last month, so I'm in the process of building a better system. Somethings to consider when dealing with refrigeration systems and chilling water or air. With a conventional A2W setup, the more times you can get the water through the front heat exchanger within a given amount of time, the cooler your IAT's will be. That means you need a pump that has a high flow rate, and a large reservoir isn't really needed.

I've had different experiences with chilled water though. If you keep the water moving slower, it'll spend more time in the heat exchanger. This will allow the water to spend more time getting refrigerated and of course get colder. Also it's beneficial to have a large reservoir. That way you can have chilled water already stored for when you make a WOT run. You don't need a super high volume IC pump since it's you want it to get colder. I haven't played with the flow rate through the actual IC, but I'm sure having 42* water spend a little bit longer in the IC is still better than ambient water moving through it more quickly.

 

Oh yeah, you're really going to want to insulate that IC you have in your sig pic. With it sitting on top of the engine like that, a lot of the cold will be wasted. It wouldn't hurt to do it now without chilled water too.

 

I thought of doing that, but cant really figure a way to do it without it looking all ghetto and what not. The powder coated black looks good, what could i use to insulate it that would still look decent?

 

Dont be so secretive about your project, share with the class please....