So all the ppl that are saying the 14 bolt is overkill must'nt have experience in a Tahoe, IMO.

Nasty Tahoe, I have an 02 Tahoe with ~190k on her. I've owned her almost 10yrs, and the last 5yrs of ownership have been procharged/cam'd/exhaust'd. Granted, I am on the 4L60 (somehow its lived with ~30kmi of boost), so maybe I am not that hard on drivetrain components; however back in 2013 I put in a 9.5" semi float "14 bolt" from the H2 and I havent looked back. I never have to worry about it. It can take anything I plan to throw at it and all I worry about is calling the tow company to get me home after the 60 finally ***** the bed.

My truck fully dressed and loaded with fuel comes in at 6100lbs. I am on 4.10s (OE for the H2) and 33s, I really want to put 4.56s in it, especially when I do the 80e swap.

My suggestion to you is look for a 6 lug 14 bolt from a 6.2 NNBS SUV/ Avalanche. look on ebay, car-part.com, local wreckers. The links and coils are all a direct bolt in to all 5 link trucks. The differences occur in the hard brake lines and the parking brake cables. I can walk you through how I did it with the Hummer rear (still dont have a parking brake tho) Rumor Ive heard around is that the 2006 cables are the same as NNBS/H2 parking brake, but I havent found an 06 lately at the yard to verify.

Imo, if you're going to spend 4-600 on a locker and gears, just spend that on a better all around axle. I got my H2 axle, dressed hub to hub with brakes and links shipped for $620, so deals are out there. And technically, it came with gears (4.10s) and a locker (OEM Eaton E-Locker). Same money, better product. Sold my 10bolt for $300 with wheels and links and never worried about it again.

 

 

Shorten the shaft by 5/8

What is the 14 bolt out of?

 

I broke the factory 3.42 geared 10-bolt G80 in my Yukon with 500 rwhp on street tires. Rebuilt the 10-bolt with an Auburn LSD and Richmond 3.90 and broke it again with my current power level, on the same street tires, at Infineon Raceway which keeps a well prepped track (I hit a best 1.63 60' before the Auburn broke). The Auburn is a cone type LSD and I might have been able to do a Truetrac and have more reliability, but I was already down $1000 due to advice from folks to stick with the 10-bolt, and figured why throw good money after bad. I swapped in a 14-bolt from a 2008 Escalade--99% bolt-in, with just the parking brake cable connections not fitting at the brake end (have it "rigged" currently and need a long term solution).

Added:
I didn't even have to shorten the driveshaft on mine, but did need a 3R to 1350 adapter u-joint.

 

Absolutely a must

 

I'd not heard/read this yet... I'm taking my dually in for service first week of January...I will go to the parts dept and see if they have all 3 pairs (for my application, 08 Escalade in my case) for a bench top comparison for length and connectors.

2006 Tahoe/Yukon: L=21997746, R=21997745
2001 Tahoe/Yukon: L=15087071, R=15087072
2008 Escalade: L=25793731, R=25864664

2003-2009 H2: L=25890198, R=15941091

 

check the newer 12 bolt rear ends they fit on 1500 trucks with 10 bolts without any modification
maybe the suv have the same size you have to take measurements ,

bigger ring and pinion and bigger axles will handle good with a posi .

 

 

The Tahoe has a 4 link Style suspension. A truck leaf sprung rear end will not bolt in.

It needs to be from a Cadillac EXT, or an H2 with the same link style suspension. I believe only the cadillac version was a 6 lug.

So if not from a cadillac you will likely need to convert it to 6 lug as well.

GoatChs thread here ---> https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...r-swap-425023/