I've been reading up and it looks like almost everyone with the STS system has had boost control problems. and it sounds like moving the signal hose is the fix. I have a few questions before I do mine.

Don't you want the signal as close to the throttle body as possible but not in the intake manifold. Or do you get better results with the manifold "seeing" vacuum? Also do you still use the 3/8 hose? (I think it is 3/8)
Where do you tap in for this, in the manifold I was thinking the brake booster line like the BOV, and if it best not in the manifold anywhere in the pipe right?

 

I ran mine to the intake manifold when I installed my intercooler. If you pull the cover off, there is a nipple about half way back on the pass side that you just brake the factory sealing piece off and connect the hose to it. You will know what I'm taking about when you see it. That's where most of the STS guys I have talked to run there from. I think the hose size is 5/16 or 9/32 if you use plain old vac hose like i did

 

I have my boost signal comming from the rear passenger side of the intake manifold. There is a nipple there that you have to cut the tip off of to open it up. I don't know how much it helped spool up time but I have had no issues with it plumbed in that location. I also have my boost gauge tee'd off the same location.

 

My boost gauge runs from the nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold as well. My boost reference runs from the stock position on the outer end of the compressor scroll. I don't have an IC so I have not moved it. I might try it there anyway to see how it works. I put in a .3 bar (yellow) waste gate spring and it solved my over boost issues. If I move my boost reference to the intake manifold I thought it might let me put the red .4 bar spring back in the waste gate and pick up my low boost setting a little.

 

On the hemi's I tee it at the blow off valve on the second pipe from the throttle body. Also use the yellow spring in the wg and use the electronic dual stage boost controller for the higher boost (8.5lbs).

 

Yep, I run the 3.5psi wastegate spring too for low boost and 8psi for high. Makes it much easier to drive in traffic. My boost signal comes in off the brake booster for me. And yea, there's a delay from the STS "factory location"

 

Thanks everyone for your input.

I just wanted to make sure I was read right in that most are running sig from the manifold rather than the piping right before. I will most likely "T" off the BOV, because I've already "T" from the nipple on the manifold to run the boost gauge and meth maps. And it is a bigger hose. I let you all know how it works.

 

Blackbird (LS1tech) is a friend of mine and after seeing the problems I had gave me the idea to tap it off the manifold (back when I was like the only truck with the kit). Worked like a charm and now tons of people do it that way. This time it's not abad idea to follow the herd LOL

 

Well just got done. I used 1/4 oil water hose insted of 1/4 vacume hose. the oil hose is thicker and alot less likelly to get kinked (sp). my boost levels where 7 1/2 psi and would spike to 10 psi when it shifted before. Now the boost is 6psi (where it should be) and spikes to 7 psi. I can live with that but I will try bigger hose and maybe some plastic hose made for air applications to get the spike down some.

 

What causes the spike during shifts? How can you bring that down?