TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

So what would work best for what I intend to do?
I will be running 8psi of boost max, 42lb injectors with the base STS Turbo.
I'll have a ice box where my stock air box used to be.
I am still up in the air about the pump for what I'm doing but I've seen the unit that Ford uses on the Lightning's intercooler used by Vortech and others as well so it may be the natural choice. I just saw an article in GM High Tech Perf magazine that says the pump is good for 100k!
I plan on purchasing a two stage controller as well.

I was thinking about using a small radiator, maybe something from a motorcycle salvage yard because of the smaller size, but I have been looking around on the net and have seen some mfg's using a bar and plate type heat exchanger instead of an actual radiator. Would the restriction of flow through this type actually be better for cooling because the fluid does not travel through it as fast? Let me know what you guys think.
For those who may ask "why not just use an air to air unit", I think from all the research I've been doing that an air to water would be better and I like to be a little different and have the means to manufacture and modify most of the parts and peices for this.
See the pic for the type of intercooler I will be building.
Thanks guys!!

duner

The plate style radiators don't seem to be all that effective with water, but work just fine for oil. You will want more of a conventional radiator if you want to cool water.

For winter driving I'd run a small motorcycle radiator. For summer driving I use my AC system to provide me with cold water for my intercooler. I disconnected the water heater lines running from the engine and routed them back together. Then I ran hose to make the water for my intercooler system run thru my stock location heater core. Funny thing happens when you do that..... when you run the air conditioning in your truck you can make 45° water at the same time! That's right - you can make all the cold water you want all the time! I have a 2.5 gallon insulated water storage reservoir that the intercooler system uses to store chilled water also. Now when I nail the throttle, my computer system turns off the AC compressor and I have about a full minute's worth of cold water on tap.

For trips to the track I have dry-break fittings inline so I can chill the water using a motorcycle radiator. I drop the motorcycle radiator into an ice chest full of ice and I don't run the AC system at the track. This gets me 40° water in the intercooler system. The results are that I end up with 90° charge air temps at 6,000 rpms at 12 psi of boost in 110° conditions while going thru the traps. That's 20° BELOW ambient in hostile conditions. For "normal" driving the inlet air temps are down right chilly!

This time of year when it's hot and humid - the outside of the intercooler and also my throttle body are always covered with condensation! I run my system year around because here in AZ we don't really have "winter"!

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

Now THAT sounds interesting! Do you happen to have any pics of your tank,. and/or set-up? I take it you don't bother with the heater in the summer, but run the intercooler lines thru the ac condenser, right? And the ac system actually cools the intercooler fluid?

TurboBerserker

iTrader: (1)

That's a cool idea (pun intended, although its bad ) I might have to try that.

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

Sound like a great idea. I'll have to read this again when I have more time!!!!!!

duner

Correct - no heater needed!

The lines from the intercooler are plumbed directly to the factory heater core. When my heater controls are in the "hot" position, the A/C chilled air (40° - 45° air) blows directly thru the heater core. Instead of using engine heated water to heat the air, we're using A/C cooled air to chill the water. I leave the pump on continuously so I'm making COLD water the entire time I'm driving it.

My system uses an insulated 2.5 gallon water tank. I fabricated the tank from 1/8" aluminum - to fit nicely above my rear crossmember and under the bottom of the cab. Other than the two 3/4" hose nipples on the tank - there is no access (or need for any). I use a SHURflo 2.8 gallon per minute water pump. My pump is mounted on top of my transmission crossmember, so it also fits under the cab.

I fabricated the intercooler to work with this chilled water system. It's basically 12 rows of finned tubing that's been boxed to make the charge air run over/thru it. On either side is a very basic "box" that water is plumbed to and from. In this system the inlet side"box" pressurizes all 12 tubes equally, so each tube is filled with water that's only allowed a single pass thru the tubes before it's chilled again. The box on the other side collects the used water.

Another use for this chilled water is cooling my fuel rails. The chilled fuel allows me to run extra timing even while in boost and also balances the fuel temperatures between cylinders/injectors. I tested the chilled fuel rail system before going to the turbo system and it made an astonishing 14 rwhp and 24 rwtq difference even then! Now it's even more critical. My guess would be that the additional cooling of the fuel and the allowed additional timing would be in the 40 to 50 rwhp range.

The intercooler fluid route is: 2.5 gallon tank to water pump to heater core to air/water intercooler to the fuel rails and back to tank. With the additional radiator in the ice chest - I can chill the entire system down to about 40° in about 5 minutes worth of circulating. Since the tank is insulated, it stays nice and cold while I wait for my turn in the staging lanes. Since the system can be cooled down so quickly it makes it perfect for those rare instances when I manage to go rounds while bracket racing.

I'll see if I can't take some pics in the near future so you guys can get a better idea about it.

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

DUNER!!
Thanks for an awesome yet simple idea. With the right combination of valves (mechanical) this can be a quick switch type of set-up!
With electronic valves and a couple of switches it could all be done from inside your cab too.
You said your holding tank under the bed was basically sealed right? Doesn't a tank like this need to have the ability to vent or burp out air that may come from expansion of gasses in the tank or can it be sealed as you say?
I know the temps in this tank are no where near the engine coolant temp so maybe it doesn't matter after all.
This sounds similar to an article or maybe even a post on here linked me to it, about the Ford Lightning using something along the lines of the AC system helping cool down the commpressed air from the supercharger. I am not sure exactly how they did it but anyway.
This is the coolest idea I have heard in a while!!
Looks like I wont be looking for a haet exchanger just yet.
Thank man!

duner

The tank outlet (to the pump) is at the lowest point and the return is at the hightest point. This allows it to "burp" when you initially fill the system. Since the tank is basically 18" lower than the intercooler itself, any air would rise to the highest point. I use my additional (motorcycle) radiator to fill the system thru it's radiator cap. I just have it higher than the intercooler so any air bubbles will rise and vent thru the radiator. Once the system is filled, it doesn't require any vent or burping at all.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

I think Ryan23Silverado blew a line off his air-water intercooler because he didn't have his pump hooked up and the temperature of the water got so high it created too much pressure in the system. He had no pressure relief cap or anything so the hose blew off.

That is a cool idea for the air to water guys to try out.

Thanks for posting it duner.

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

Makes perfect sense, I guess using the motorcycle radiator has an added benifit. A CAP where you can fill the system and periodically check it!