swift700

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. The paint has some gold and a bit of green mixed in with the yellow. It looks even better in person, brighter and a little greener. Cameras don't do this stuff justice.

Here's an 80's vintage Pioneer chainsaw that I restored, down to the last bolt and decal. I though the paint would look good on an LS engine.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Not quite. The 410 was 9.5:1, the 408 was 11:1 with the 8lbs from the blower.

Wrong engine. I would still have the 408 with blower setup if the original engine builder had properly set up the main bearings and measured the crank. It ate the main bearing with about 1000miles on it because of taper in the crank journal.

Sort of. It saw 25psi for about 2 seconds at half throttle before I could let out of it, saw no immediate effects from this though.

Exactly, that set up was so fun.

swift700

iTrader: (3)

Atomic, it took you long enough to straighten this all out!

I'm still waiting on a few parts to finish this up. Will update as I make progress. I'm ordering 60lb injectors tomorrow along with HP Tuners (now that's a scary thought) and some intake manifold gaskets.

Atomic, what injectors were you running on your 1900?

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

deka 60s with a single 255, highest IDC was around 75%

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

cool

swift700

iTrader: (3)

Atomic, do you have any pics of these or the model number? Were there any mods required to make them fit on the 1900?

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

They were the long 60s, high impedance, ev6. I believer there is only one version like that. The rails had to be spaced a 1/2" but that was all.

swift700

iTrader: (3)

Today I got my Mast tray in and it cleared the the rods beautifully. Unfortunately, It doesn't clear the oil pan where the cast filter housing juts out. I need to remove it tomorrow and cut out a little bit:



What I need to cut out:


Here's what's hitting:


I also installed my IW pulley. This thing is huge. It bottomed out solidly but I'm wondering if it's seated to the right depth. Is it supposed to bottom out against the timing gear or the face of the crankshaft, I wonder? It didn't seem to line up so well with the water pump. I hope the timing gear is on far enough and that it isn't the problem...


I also picked up these little buggers: 60lbers from Five-O Motorsports. They are modified 8.1 injectors, flow matched and appear as though they'll be a direct fit onto the Maggie 1900:







I got my front and rear covers on as well. I installed the GM rear seal backwards with the lips facing inward. I just had a feeling that it was the way to go.

swift700

iTrader: (3)

I blew my 60e at the racetrack last weekend and am in the process of doing an 80e swap and am finally going to do the engine swap. I got the transfer case and transmission out, changed the transfer case input gear and now I'm so sore I can barely move.

Here's the transfer case split:




My 12mm custom ground allen key for the speed sensors. I made it from a chisel.



New 80e transfer case input shaft installed, compared with the removed 60e shaft.


Fits like a glove, shown next to my 60e that has slipping clutches. The oil was pretty contaminated.



I ordered HP Tuners today. I'll need a new neutral safety switch as it was broken, and a dust cover for the transmission. I'm really looking for a 2600-2800 stall for the 80e. Does anyone have one? What kind would you buy new, especially if you tow?

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

Holy **** that 80E converter is a freaking MONSTER! Call Dave & get a Yank ordered for that thing before you install it. Trust me on this, you will not regret it. Don't install that converter!!