Behold the 383 shortblock
Mar 1, 2011 | 01:55 AM
#41
Just make sure you clay and measure the piston to valve clearances on that bad boy before you fire it up, that's all I'd say you really have to worry about. That and making sure the shorter gaskets don't wind up making the pushrods depress the lifter's pushrod cups to far into their bores (ie: may need shorter rods, but probably not).
Mar 1, 2011 | 12:46 PM
#43
Just make sure you clay and measure the piston to valve clearances on that bad boy before you fire it up, that's all I'd say you really have to worry about. That and making sure the shorter gaskets don't wind up making the pushrods depress the lifter's pushrod cups to far into their bores (ie: may need shorter rods, but probably not).
And yes, I'm feeling good about the extra compression already. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense.
Mar 1, 2011 | 07:59 PM
#44
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From: Mefis
I agree. A few reasons I built a 383 over a 408 were:
1. I already had the heads. They would have been too small for a 408 and too big for my 5.3
2. I didn't want to max out my blower. It's more suitable to a 383 than a 408.
3. I wanted some semblance of fuel economy. This is the truck I commute with. It's a short commute but I do drive it around town.
4. the 5.3 blocks are so easy to find, and cheap. I got the whole engine for $200 and have sold a few parts from it to further offset the cost.
5. Everyone's doing a 408. I know it's an excellent engine but I like the size of the 383. It's halfway between the 6.0 and the 408 and it's different, especially with a blower. Not many guys have done one.
6. It will have some awesome torque, bar none. Especially if I upgrade to a TVS2300.
I know there aren't too many good reasons for building a 383 over a 408 but now that I have it I'm glad I built it. There's a kid in a town nearby that I know and he just built a 383 Vortec for his '98 4x4 Sierra. He thinks he'll have a good chance against mine even after I'm done the swap. It's a nice truck, but boy is he in for a surprise this summer.
1. I already had the heads. They would have been too small for a 408 and too big for my 5.3
2. I didn't want to max out my blower. It's more suitable to a 383 than a 408.
3. I wanted some semblance of fuel economy. This is the truck I commute with. It's a short commute but I do drive it around town.
4. the 5.3 blocks are so easy to find, and cheap. I got the whole engine for $200 and have sold a few parts from it to further offset the cost.
5. Everyone's doing a 408. I know it's an excellent engine but I like the size of the 383. It's halfway between the 6.0 and the 408 and it's different, especially with a blower. Not many guys have done one.
6. It will have some awesome torque, bar none. Especially if I upgrade to a TVS2300.
I know there aren't too many good reasons for building a 383 over a 408 but now that I have it I'm glad I built it. There's a kid in a town nearby that I know and he just built a 383 Vortec for his '98 4x4 Sierra. He thinks he'll have a good chance against mine even after I'm done the swap. It's a nice truck, but boy is he in for a surprise this summer.
Mar 1, 2011 | 08:04 PM
#45
The main thing I like about bigger bores is the les valve shrouding and with how good the L92/LS3 heads are they can really take advantage of that bore. With being forced induction though its not near as pertinent. I think youre going to be really happy with your setup. I doubt given your shoes Id upgrade to the 2300, Id just juice it with 150 shot if I got bored with the 1900s power.
Mar 1, 2011 | 10:26 PM
#46
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From: Mefis
Mar 1, 2011 | 11:09 PM
#47
Plus smaller bores have a better resistance to detonation.
I'd just juice it with 150 shot if I got bored with the 1900s power.
Mar 2, 2011 | 04:46 PM
#48
I picked up my 80E today for 4 bills. It came off a wrecked '03 and had 15k miles on a rebuild. It included the TC, dipstick, cooler lines, flexplate and mounting hardware. For you guys who've done the swap on the 4x4, how long did it take you to do it?
Mar 2, 2011 | 11:47 PM
#49
I can't speak to the 4X4 part but an 80E swap is pretty straight forward. You need to hook up the extra speed sensor to the PCM, have a shorter driveshaft, have the trans support modified, and then just swap it. Took me about 2 hours or so. Call it 3 with prep work and clean-up. (On a lift)
Mar 3, 2011 | 05:17 AM
#50
I did mine in the driveway, but of course i took the entire motor out to do it lol. I can tell you though that i JUST finished doing a rear main seal on my truck and its basically the same involved. The only thing that differs in my experience than what 1Slow is saying, is that i needed a longer drive shaft not a shorter one! I have a 4x4 ECSB ... When i got the rear DS i needed to get a custom built one so that i could place in a carrier bearring since my shaft was longer and weighed a little more!